** Help prepping daughters hair for relaxer from Natural **

[CharUK]

Hi all, my daughter is now insistent on relaxing her hair and although we've put it off for a year, she's adamant.

She'll get the relaxer done in around 5 days time, please could you help me with prepping her hair?

I'll tell you what I have at home and I'd be so grateful if you could tell me what I could buy while I'm out today? We also haven't decided on the best relaxer for her first application!!

* HE - Hello hydration conditioner, shampoo and deep conditioner
* Elasta QP -DR-11
* Elasta QP Creme conditioning shampoo
* Carrot oil cholesterol conditioner
* Keracare hydrating detangling shampoo
* Keracare clarifying shampoo
* Keracare leave in conditioner

I have moisturising products like mango butter, Cantu Shea butter etc.

Her hair does not accept water very well (I can't remember the porosity, but we did a test and it took over a day to sink!)

Any help much appreciated!! Thanks in advance..

 

[PureSilver]

Bump bump bumpity bump
I would love to know this too. I am considering a relaxer for next Friday. I washed and DC my hair yesterday. I have applied minoval to my edges a few mins ago. Will getting a relaxer affect my hair since I am using minoval?

 

[keranikki]

Hi all, my daughter is now insistent on relaxing her hair and although we've put it off for a year, she's adamant.

She'll get the relaxer done in around 5 days time, please could you help me with prepping her hair?

I'll tell you what I have at home and I'd be so grateful if you could tell me what I could buy while I'm out today? We also haven't decided on the best relaxer for her first application!!

* HE - Hello hydration conditioner, shampoo and deep conditioner
* Elasta QP -DR-11
* Elasta QP Creme conditioning shampoo
* Carrot oil cholesterol conditioner
* Keracare hydrating detangling shampoo
* Keracare clarifying shampoo
* Keracare leave in conditioner

I have moisturising products like mango butter, Cantu Shea butter etc.

Her hair does not accept water very well (I can't remember the porosity, but we did a test and it took over a day to sink!)

Any help much appreciated!! Thanks in advance..

I would do a protein treatment today to give her hair strength and keep her hair moisturized as you count down the days to her relaxer. About two days before her relaxer, stay away from any product that would stimulate the scalp in order to avoid possible scalp burn (e.g. sulfur, peppermint oil). I would also check out the relaxer buddy thread for more suggestions. Good luck!

 

[curlicarib]

Isn't there a protein step in the middle somewhere? Sorry I'm a lifetime natural and don't know much about relaxing, but I'm sure that I've read that you should do a protein treatment either before or after neutralizing.

Have you checked out the "Relaxed Hair Thread"? It's usually on the first page in the hair section.

 

[Pompous Blue]

CharUK
I have nothing to add but just wanted to say I looked at your Fotki and your hair is GORGEOUS!

 

[CharUK]

I would do a protein treatment today to give her hair strength and keep her hair moisturized as you count down the days to her relaxer. About two days before her relaxer, stay away from any product that would stimulate the scalp in order to avoid possible scalp burn (e.g. sulfur, peppermint oil). I would also check out the relaxer buddy thread for more suggestions. Good luck!

Thanks so much! It's so easy to get bogged down with TOO much info!! So I'll DR-11 her hair today, follow up with Hello hydration conditioner and moisturise as usual.

As it's her first relaxer I was thinking to base her scalp the day before? I know some people do this several days before but I'm just trying to prevent any possibility of scalp burn. Also, she is a scratcher!!

We've settled on ORS relaxer. (The olive oil one)
xx

 

[CharUK]

Isn't there a protein step in the middle somewhere? Sorry I'm a lifetime natural and don't know much about relaxing, but I'm sure that I've read that you should do a protein treatment either before or after neutralizing.

Have you checked out the "Relaxed Hair Thread"? It's usually on the first page in the hair section.

Hi, I did, yes thanks But I ended up with 19 windows open and my head pretty much exploded

Also, I thought there was a protein step too? We watched a good video and I think the girl used Apoghee reconstructor? I wonder if this may be too much protein, or I guess if I protein today I should leave it a week or so before doing it again??

 

[CharUK]

Pompous Blue Thank you!!

 

[curlicarib]

Hi, I did, yes thanks But I ended up with 19 windows open and my head pretty much exploded

Also, I thought there was a protein step too? We watched a good video and I think the girl used Apoghee reconstructor? I wonder if this may be too much protein, or I guess if I protein today I should leave it a week or so before doing it again??

As I recall, the protein was done during the relaxing process to help with the damage that the relaxer does to the hair(?). Maybe?

Perhaps sunnieb or divachyk or sharifeh may know.

 

[NefertariBlu]

CharUK Wow l remember you from nappturality. I even saw myself in your fotki album when we went to cottons lolol.

Haven't got any advice love but your hair looks fab! Your doing a good job with it.

 

[divachyk]

curlicarib, thanks for the mention. CharUK, sorry for the delay. I've been out and about all day. Hope I'm not too late.

I copied this straight from my blog:

I am salon relaxed by a professional stylist. She uses Design Essentials Regular. I am not a long term stretcher -- I normally TU every 10-12 weeks. Long term stretches caused more harm (breakage) than good (retention & thickness). I average around 1/2" per growth per month.

I like to let my scalp rest before a TU to minimize the potential for burning or tingling. So, about 5-7 days before TU, I clarify, protein treat (if needed), DC, air dry or roller set.

Protein: I use something in the reconstructor family. I don't use hard proteins. Ion Effective Care (from Sally's) or ORS Replenishing Pak are great options.

Styling: I either air dry or roller set on the last wash day before TU. Roller setting ensures the hair gets properly detangled but should I opt to air dry, I flat iron my roots only about 3-4 days pre-TU to ensure my hair gets properly detangled. I don't flat iron for straight results. I flat iron to knock out some of the kink/bulk and release shed hairs. I go over the ng with one pass on the lowest temp setting on my flat iron.

TU Prep: The night before TU, I base my scalp with Summit base cream (from BSS). I apply it to my scalp as though I was greasing my scalp. I go through my head once with using vertical parts and then again with using horizontal parts. I then apply some oil (evco, jbco or whatever is nearby) to my length to protect it from the TU process.

 

[divachyk]

CharUK, I have low porosity as well (hair takes forever to sink). The post above details how I care for my hair the days leading up to my TU.

My scalp is super sensitive and burns easily so I have to start my prep about 5 days in advance. I'm also protein sensitive (most low porosity heads are) so I don't always protein treat before a TU. I gauge my hair's needs and treat as needed. I cannot use hard core proteins so I opt for something less powerful.

Some ladies can cowash the day before TU or use hard core proteins, but that's so not the case with me.

I'm not familiar with the ingredients in all your products but my recs based on your list without analyzing them closely to make sure they play well together would be...

Keracare clarifying - remove any buildup
Protein treat with the product her hair responds to best - strengthens the hair
Cowash - get some moisture going before DCing
HE HH deep conditioner
Keracare LIs
Style the hair

Make sure the steps from cowash - LIs are not protein based. Don't want her protein overloaded unless her hair thrives on protein. The actual protein step should be enough protein to strengthen her hair before the TU process.

Make sure she stays away from things that stimulate the scalp or cause irritation.

Please let me know how it goes. Feel free PM me if you need to chat via message as well.

ETA: CharUK SUNSHINE BABY, does that help some?

 

[PureSilver]

divachyk thank you so much. Should i relax next saturday/sunday i hope this time around i will have a better experience being relaxed and i will live in the relaxed threads. I'm still on the fence though, mainly because i'm working on growing back my edges and growing out my hair some more. I do have some length but being SL un-stretched and 2'' below BSL is not enough for me. I told myself i wouldn't relax until i am at least APL in plaits and i am a far way from that.

 

[sunnieb]

divachyk - I think you got it covered, but here's some additional info I printed out to help me when I first started self-relaxing:

10-step Pre-relaxer checklist

If you ask the average black woman why she chooses to relax her hair, you will hear one response time and time again. Convenience. However, the convenience of relaxing black hair does not come to us without great consequence. Hair relaxing is by far the harshest process a hair strand will encounter in its "lifetime." Compromised from the start, relaxed hair is a challenge to keep in tip top shape. Imagine the trauma your hair endures! The hair cuticle is raided, and the bonds within the hair strand are seized, broken apart, and physically rearranged. The unique curl pattern, so typical of our hair, is forever destroyed. Yet nearly 70% of black female population undergo this service regularly (Gray, 2003). This article will give you a 10-point checklist of important questions and information you should consider before allowing a stylist to chemically treat your hair.

But first, why am I an authority on this issue?
Well first, I am a woman of color who has dealt with my own chemically relaxed hair for over 15 years. For the last several years, I have been into promoting healthy hair care strategies for women of color, and the Internet has allowed me and many others the opportunity to address these populations that would otherwise remain under-served in traditional media outlets. For me, hair was a problem, turned hobby, turned passion. Because of my experience and undergraduate background in science and health care, I regularly disseminate trusted and valuable hair care information and advice on hair care forums web-wide. Currently, I am in the midst of writing a manuscript for a more comprehensive work on black hair care and I maintain an online hair album that documents my hair success and progress!

If you choose a professional stylist to administer your relaxer, there are certain things you should be looking for during the application. If you find that your stylist is skimping on any of these relaxer precautions, as a paying customer, it is your right to bring these issues to his/her attention immediately. Your hair is what is at stake!

The Checklist: What should you be looking for?

1.) Does your stylist do a thorough assessment of your hair for breakage, shedding, and other scalp conditions before applying the relaxer?
Never relax breaking or otherwise compromised hair! Always let a stylist know about any medical conditions you may have that might affect relaxer turnout.

2.) Does your stylist ask you for a hair history including past chemical treatments, or inquire about your hair habits during the week prior to your impending relaxer application?
A good stylist will ask you pertinent questions about past hair treatments that may possibly have an effect on the one you are planning to do. Always let your stylist know the last time you washed your hair, whether or not you are color treated, and the date of your last relaxer application.

3.) Does your stylist show you the relaxer they will be using (from the actual relaxer container) prior to application?
Always know what chemicals and which strengths are being used on your hair! That way, if you switch stylists later or have to relocate, your hair maintenance plan does not become interrupted. Also, if you experience a negative reaction to that particular relaxer brand, you can avoid the mistake of using it again in the future.

4.) Does your stylist base your scalp or protect your previously relaxed ends with some type of protective petroleum barrier?
Always base and protect your scalp prior to a relaxer. Extra care should be given to sensitive areas such as the hairline, nape, tops of ears, edges, and the length of the hair to prevent chemical damage.

5.) Does your stylist consistently only relax your new growth, and when smoothing, do they maintain the relaxer only on the new growth (not inches up from it)?
Relaxing previously relaxed hair is extremely damaging. Relaxers destroy bonds in the hair, and the more exposure your hair has to these chemicals application after application, the more unnecessary bond breakage you will experience. Continuous exposure to relaxer chemicals over time can degrade the cuticle and result in dry, weak, breakage-prone, over processed hair.

6.) Does your stylist relax your hair for the length of time required for your hair type?
You should NEVER feel the relaxer tingling, burning, or otherwise working on your scalp during a relaxer application. Contrary to popular belief, tingling does NOT mean that the relaxer is WORKING. It means that your base and protective layers have been breached by the relaxer, and your hair and scalp are now vulnerable to damage. If you feel tingling, you've waited too long to rinse.

7.) Does your stylist give your neutralizer time to actually halt the chemical reactions taking place within the hair strand by allowing it to sit undisturbed for several minutes?
Neutralizing shampoos work excellently to stop the relaxer process; however, they must be given time to work! Rinsing neutralizer from the hair before it has a chance to penetrate the hair shaft and halt the chemical reactions in the hair can result in weak, dry, over processed hair. Make sure your stylist allows the neutralizer to sit on your hair for at least 3-5 minutes before she begins to rinse.

8.) Does your stylist explain post-relaxer upkeep to you?
You should not be a slave to his/her chair! A good stylist educates his/her clients on the basics of healthy hair care such as protein and moisturizing conditioning treatments. Healthy hair care happens at home BETWEEN visits to the stylist. It begins with you. A good stylist will help you maintain a healthy head of hair and is not afraid to share his/her knowledge with you. Why? Because they know that you will be back again!

9.) Does your stylist encourage you to limit your use of chemicals by stretching your relaxer applications to no sooner than every 8-10 weeks for a healthier head of hair and scalp?
Relaxer applications should be done no sooner than every 8-10 weeks for best results. Relaxing the hair too often weakens the hair and makes it susceptible to breakage and damage. Give your hair and scalp a chance to rest and recuperate after your relaxer applications.

10.) Does your stylist respect your hair, your time, and your other needs and concerns?
This is by far one of the most important questions you should ask. If you and your stylist do not communicate well, that can spell relaxer disaster. Always share your hair concerns with your stylist. If you do not like a particular relaxer brand, ask him to try something new. If you would like to process your hair for shorter periods of time, let her know. If you are done with relaxers all together and are considering a transition from relaxed to natural hair, your stylist should support you.

If you have answered "no" to any of these questions, you should reconsider your stylist. Mistakes like those outlined above may devastate your hair health and progress over time. Since hair is non-living, any damage you cause to it is cumulative and irreparable. Remind yourself of these questions the next time you prepare for your chemical relaxer service. Are you being given the royal treatment? Do not sit idly, and allow someone else to sabotage your hair success, especially if you are paying them to do so! Happy Hair Days!

Reference
Gray, J. (2003) The World of Hair. Proctor and Gamble. Retrieved from the world wide web: www.pg.com

 

[sunnieb]

Another article:

Getting Ready to Relax?

Want to learn how to prepare your hair for chemical relaxing and straightening? This article will teach you a four-step hair preparation strategy that you can use to protect your hair just prior to any chemical relaxer service!

But first, why am I an authority on this issue?
Well first, I am a woman of color who has dealt with my own chemically relaxed hair for over 15 years. For the last several years, I have been into promoting healthy hair care strategies for women of color, and the Internet has allowed me and many others the opportunity to address these populations that would otherwise remain underserved in traditional media outlets. For me hair was a problem, turned hobby, turned passion.

Because of my experience and undergraduate background in science and health care, I regularly disseminate trusted and valuable hair care information and advice on hair care forums webwide. Currently, I am in the midst of writing a manuscript for a more comprehensive work on black hair care and I maintain an online hair album that documents my hair success and progress!

We must begin with the obvious: chemical hair relaxing is a very stressful process on the hair. Because of the aggressive nature of these straightening chemicals and the extreme consequences that may arise from improper usage, careful thought and consideration should be given to preparing the hair for this process.

Prepping the Hair:
First and foremost, only begin the relaxer process with hair that is in tip top shape. Many of us say: Oh my hair is breaking...or shedding let me go ahead relax it! But, you must understand that you are taking a huge gamble with your hair health by proceeding with a chemical relaxer application on compromised hair.

Never relax your hair to "solve" a hair problem. You should always correct the problem first with the proper treatment. If your problem is hair breakage, you must pinpoint the cause of the breakage and treat the hair accordingly. You'll simply need to increase the moisture you give your hair if your breakage is from an overuse of protein, or increase the protein if your breakage is a result of over-conditioning. If your problem is shedding, be patient and let nature do what it needs to do first. Some have had success with garlic shampoo treatments for shedding problems, but because shedding is a response to natural, hormonal processes, topical treatments may not work.

Only when your hair and scalp have returned to normal should you proceed with your relaxer service. Relaxing your hair will only aggravate the condition you are facing by making your hair weaker and more vulnerable to damage. These strong chemicals could cause you even more breakage, shedding, or permanent hair loss if done to fix an existing hair problem. I cannot stress this enough ladies, relaxing should never be used as a means of correcting hair issues. You must solve the problems of shedding, dryness, or breakage BEFORE you relax your hair.

Your 4 Step Pre-Relaxer Game Plan
Preparing your hair for a relaxer is one of the best things you can do for your hair heath.You can follow these pre and post relaxer strategies whether you self relax or see a stylist for your chemical treatments. Ensuring your hair is in top physical condition prior to the relaxer service will give you better results with the finished product.

Step 1: Clean it Up!
Your final shampooing should take place on the last 3-5 days before your relaxer. At this wash (particularly if you desire a straighter, more thoroughly processed result), you should use a clarifying shampoo to remove any deposits or product buildup on the hair. A clarifiying shampoo, or any "stripping" shampoo containing the detergents Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate or Ammonium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate will be strong enough to remove buildup and maintain a clean and clear head of hair. (Assuming you use minimal or non- heavy products leading up to your hair service.) I highly recommend Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo ($3-5) for clarifying purposes. If you do not wish to have a bone straight look and prefer some texture, then you may continue to apply your products in their normal ratios up until the relaxer.

Step 2: Toughen it Up!
You should treat your hair to a protein treatment the final wash before your relaxer. Follow up the treatment with a good moisturizing deep conditioning. Giving your hair a protein treatment in the days leading up to your relaxer application gives your hair little more protein to work with going into the relaxer. This prevents the relaxing process from totally compromising the strength of your hair when your inner protein bonds are manipulated. To determine which strength of protein reconstructor to use, I would first do a breakage assessment of the hair. If you are already having some breakage, I would go with a moderate to heavy treatment for damaged hair. I recommend the Aphogee Treament for Damaged Hair (under $8) for heavy protein conditioning. If you don't have any noticeable breakage, then a lighter/milder treatment should be fine. I recommend Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor or Motions CPR Conditioner for light protein conditioning. Both products are less than $5 at any beauty supply store. You can substitute whatever brand of protein reconstructor/conditioner you like to use. Do not proceed with the relaxer application if you are still having noticable breakage or shedding. After you have completed steps 1 and 2, do not wash, scratch, or do anything to disturb your scalp.

Step 3: Protect It!
The day of relaxer, pay special attention to the length and ends of your hair. The hair shaft and ends are especially vulnerable to damage from the relaxing process unless you protect them. Applying a light coating of something like olive oil, castor oil, a thick conditioner, grease or vaseline to your scalp and hair past the new growth prevents the rest of your hair from being "re-relaxed" as a result of overlapping and runoff during the final rinsing of the relaxer. Protection for the length and ends of the hair is essential because the short, compact nature of the new growth makes it is virtually impossible to avoid overlap. This "chemical run" and lack of protection for the shaft and ends is one of the many reasons quite a few relaxed ladies have thinner, and thinner ends.

Also remember, that oiling the new growth itself may leave you underprocessed because the relaxer has to penetrate through the layers you have put on. If you want a straighter turnout, be sure that you do not coat your new growth-- only coat your scalp and hair shaft past the new growth. As always, apply protective base (vaseline, oil, grease) to your scalp, tops of ears, and other sensitive areas . The base will give you an extra layer of protection between the relaxer crème and those areas.

Step 4: Stand Test It!
Perform a strand test before applying any relaxer (or hair coloring chemicals) to your hair, even if you have previously used the chemical in question. Our bodies change, and so does our tolerance and allergies to certain products. Also, it is not uncommon for companies to alter formulas over the years as well. A chemical that may have worked well for you for years may suddenly fail to give you desired effect it once did. Performing a strand test will always let you know where you stand.

Good Luck!

 

[sunnieb]

Guide to Safely Applying Relaxers

Chemical relaxing is a very stressful process on the hair. If done improperly, chemical relaxing can result in follicle damage, thinning, breakage and permanent hair loss. Despite the risk, nearly 70% of the African American female population regularly relaxes their hair. Today, chemically relaxing the hair seems to be the premier style of choice for women of the black diaspora. This article will teach you how to safely chemically relax your hair.

Applying your own chemical relaxer is perhaps the epitome of taking your hair care into your own hands. However, I would be remiss if I did not mention the fact that self-relaxing is NOT for everyone. It takes time, patience, and concentration to get it right. While it is generally recommended that you see a professional stylist for your chemical relaxer applications, in the real world, this is not always possible. You should only enter the decision to relax your own hair after much careful thought and consideration. For an enterprising few, self-relaxing is indeed the way to go.

Pre-Relaxer Considerations
When you're ready to begin the chemical relaxing process, please take time to consider the following questions:

1.) How straight should my hair be? How far should I go?
The obvious answer is as straight as possible right? Wrong! Do not rely on a chemical relaxer to take you to a 100% degree of straightness. Remember, you can always flat iron your hair for a bone straight look anytime without compromising the inner structure of your hair. I recommend that you relax your hair only to about an 80-90% degree of straightness, where some natural texture remains. Relaxing the hair bone straight increases your odds of hair thinning and loss over time.

The degree of sulfur and protein bond breakage determines how straight your hair gets. The more broken bonds the straighter, and sadly, the weaker your hair is. The higher level of bond breakage in bone straight hair causes this type of relaxed hair to be the most fragile. Bone straight, chemically relaxed hair is one step away from being overprocessed, and it usually does not have the required elasticity left within the strand to resist breakage easily. Your hair will hold moisture better and maintain much of its natural strength if you do not relax your hair bone straight.

2.) Can I Lessen the harsh effects of my chemical relaxer?
Chemical relaxers contain very harsh ingredients, but you can reduce the aggressiveness of your chemical relaxer. To reduce the harsh effects of your relaxer, simply add ¼ of a cup of your favorite oil or conditioner to the creme. This additional material will help to condition your hair. It will also buy you valuable application time during your self-relaxing process by slowing the processing of the relaxer. Any oil or lightweight conditioner will do! I use almond oil in my chemical relaxer creme.

3.) Is there any way that I can practice this before I take the Plunge?
Practice Makes Perfect! For those who are self relaxing for the first time, I recommend that you practice with your favorite conditioner before you ever try it with actual chemicals. This way if you mess up, overlap, or take longer than you are supposed to--your hair won't suffer at all. In fact, your hair will actually benefit from the lengthy conditioning.

Now that you've considered those three issues, it is time to begin the first stage of the chemical relaxer process.

STAGE 1: Prep Hair and Gather your Materials:

You Will Need:
Gloves-To protect your hands from harsh relaxer chemicals.
Relaxer chemicals can irritate your hands and weaken or discolor fingernails which, like your hair, are composed of protein.

Base/Oil-To protect your hair and scalp.
Be sure to coat the entire length of hair to protect previously chemically relaxed portions from further damage.

Relaxer- Choose your relaxer based on your own hair type and desired turnout.

Applicator Brush - Optional. For use if you do not wish to apply chemical relaxer creme with your gloved fingers.

Towels- 1 Small hand towel for your face, 1 large towel to drape over your shoulders during relaxer application, 1 towel to drape during the rinsing stage, 1 towel to dry the hair, an extra clean towel just in case!

Timer/Clock-To keep track of time

Comb (optional): After your initial four corner partings, a comb is optional. A comb can inadvertently scratch or irritate your scalp during relaxer application so I personally do not use one. I allow my fingers to part my newgrowth.

Neutralizing Shampoo: Select a neutralizing shampoo with a color alarm or indicator.

Mild Protein Conditioning Treatment- for mid-relaxer protein conditioning step (optional). Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin reconstructor, Motions CPR, and Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pacs are good protein conditioning treatments to use.

Deep Moisturizing Conditioner: Select a thick, creamy moisturizing conditioner for following up your relaxer application. (See regimen builder)

4 clips/holders: To keep loose hair controlled while you section and apply relaxer to your hair.

Be sure to gather your materials well before you actually begin the relaxer application. Having everything you need beforehand will enhance efficiency and save precious time.

 

[sunnieb]

Guide Continued......

STAGE 2: APPLY THE CHEMICAL RELAXER
IMPORTANT! Before you start your chemical relaxer application, make sure that you have properly prepared your hair to undergo this process by following the 4 critical steps in this article.

Application Methods
A.) Gloved Finger Method (Basic Method of Relaxer Application)- Hands are gloved and chemical relaxer is smoothed onto sections with the fingers or the back of a comb. This method offers less control for applying the relaxer neatly.

B.) Applicator Paintbrush Method- Very similar to basic method of relaxer application. The hair is parted and relaxer is "painted" or smoothed onto the newgrowth with the applicator brush. This method also gives the user more control of the relaxer application and best prevents overlapping.

Application Steps
Step 1.) Divide your hair into 4 sections, parting your hair from ear to ear and then right down the middle. This will give you 2 sections in the front and 2 in the back.

Step 2.) Work with one section of hair at a time. Use your clips to tie back the other sections of hair while you concentrate on the section you are working on. Begin working on the most resistant section of the four you have created, saving your edges and nape for last. You should either start an inch or two up from the neck line, or an inch or two back from the front hairline in the sections you are working on.
.
Step 3.) Make ½ inch partings* in the section you are working on and apply the relaxer to the curly newgrowth. Take care not to overlap the crème onto the previously relaxed areas, and keep the relaxer away from your scalp. (Hopefully you will have already based your scalp so that if you do touch your scalp-you'll have a buffer to prevent damage). When you complete this section, unpin another and repeat.

*Do not attempt to part through your hair perfectly with a comb, especially if you are several weeks post relaxer. This is unnecessary manipulation. Finger parting will work just as well. You want to part, lift, and apply to both sides. Be sure that you coat both sides of the hair strand with your mixture!

Switch it Up!
It is good to alternate your starting point with subsequent relaxer applications if you do not have any painfully resistant areas. For instance, if you begin with the back left section each and every time you relax, relax this section last the next time around. If you consistently relax a section first each time, this section of your hair becomes compromised because it is always exposed to chemicals for the longest periods of time. Years and years of relaxing this section first may begin to thin it out. Switch up your starting point from time to time, so that particular sections are not over exposed time and time again.

Step 4.) Your relaxer should be processing your hair at this point and starting to break down your disulfide bonds. It is now your job to do the actual "straightening." Gently smooth and work the relaxer creme into the hair, making sure that you are not overlapping the chemical relaxer creme onto previously relaxed sections. Work the relaxer in a downward motion, making sure that you are keeping the cuticle layers pointing downward at all times. Your fingers should be smoothing the hair in ONE downward direction. Do not work the relaxer "against the grain," past the newgrowth, or down the shaft. DO NOT COMB THE RELAXER THROUGH THE HAIR.

Keep your eye on the clock. Chemical relaxer timing depends on the texture, porosity, and condition of your hair in addition to the look you want to achieve. You should follow the time frame instructions for the relaxer you are planning to use. Speed is the key to a successful application. Do NOT wait until the relaxer begins to tingle or burn your scalp!

Help! I'm on FIRE!
Many of us have been raised to believe that the relaxer is "working" when it begins to tingle. This is far from the truth! The chemical relaxer is indeed working, but working on eating through your scalp and hair making it weaker by the second! Relaxers should never burn. Ever! You should never allow your hair to even reach the point of tingling. A tingling/burning relaxer is a sign that:

a.) The chemical has been in contact with the scalp for entirely too long and

b.) The relaxer has breached the protective base barrier that was placed on the scalp and is now working on breaking down the hair even further.

By this point, you've waited too long to rinse and usually you can expect some scabbing, watering, or oozing of the scalp in the affected areas several days after the relaxer. These chemical relaxer burns are not "the cost of doing business." They should not be taking place period. Scabbing is a sure sign of improper relaxer application, and if you, a stylist, or someone else is applying your relaxers only to result in scabs later, drop them. LET THEM GO! They are causing you much more harm than good.

Step 5: Thoroughly rinse the chemical relaxer crème from your hair with warm water. Ensure that all physical traces of relaxer have been rinsed. Your hair is still extremely vulnerable to relaxer damage due to the unstable, high pH pf the hair and your swollen, lifted cuticle layers. Handle your hair with extreme care!

 

[sunnieb]

Guide Continued.....

STAGE 3: The Mid-Relaxer Conditioning Protein Step
Several relaxer formulations come with a mid-relaxer protein conditioning step that involves the application of a mild protein treatment between the relaxer rinsing and neutralizing stages of the chemical relaxer process. This five minute step is done essentially to restore protein stores lost or compromised during the relaxer application. The great thing about this mid-relaxer protein conditioning step is that it can be safely performed with any chemical relaxer brand that you like and with any mild protein conditioner that you like! The steps are simple. Thoroughly rinse the relaxer crème from your hair with warm water after processing. Apply your mild protein conditioning treatment to your hair for three to five minutes. Rinse thoroughly and proceed with the rest of your neutralizing procedure.

**Some people like to start washing out their relaxer 3-5 minutes earlier than normal to accommodate this step. This is optional. You can still safely fully process your hair with the relaxer for the normal, recommended time and incorporate this beneficial step.

The Benefits
The main benefit of this mid-relaxer protein procedure is the maximum penetration of the protein molecules deep into the hair shaft that it permits. As you have read, relaxers disturb and destroy the protein bonding structure of our hair. This is the same structure that is responsible for our hair's strength and elasticity. The point after the relaxer is rinsed, and right before the neutralizing phase is the most critical point in the relaxing process for the hair shaft. It is here that the hair cuticle is most open and receptive to treatments.
Yet another benefit of this mid-relaxer protein conditioning step is the increased body, strength, and volume it gives the hair following a chemical relaxer. The hair does not exhibit that limp, thin lifeless look that it typically has after a fresh relaxer. This mid protein step actually increases the body and thickness of the hair shaft!

Why this works
Because of the relaxer's high pH, the cuticle layer is the most open it will ever be. Introducing the protein at this phase allows for maximum protein penetration and replacement due to the extreme lifting of the cuticle layer following the relaxing process.

But Will the relaxer still continue to process my hair?
The relaxing process is a chemical reaction that is not compatible at low pHs. Relaxers work in the 10-14 pH range. It is the low pH of the neutralizer that stops the neutralizing process, nothing special. Any and all of the products you apply following the rinsing of the relaxer help to gradually bring the pH of your hair back down to its normal pH of about 4.5 to 5.5.

The water from the initial warm water rinsing of the relaxer has a neutral pH of around 7. The water's neutral pH helps bring the relaxer pH down a bit from its usual 10 to 14 pH range to a range of about 8 or 9 . The protein conditioner has a low, normalizing pH of 4 to 6 as well so it also brings your hair's pH down so that your hair isn't processing at full strength. The neutralizer finishes and seals the process. It typically bears the lowest pH of any product used during the relaxing process, so it helps bring down pH of the hair even more. This step is where the cuticles close back down the tightest. Doing the protein before this happens is the key, however, do not allow the protein treatment to linger on the hair longer than five to seven minutes. You still need to quickly move on to the rest of the neutralizing phase. This five minute protein step is optional, but it works!

STAGE 4: The Neutralizing Rinse
The neutralizing step is the most important, yet surprisingly most misunderstood phase of the relaxing process. Unfortunately, this step is where many relaxer applications go terribly wrong. If the hair is not properly neutralized, the relaxer will continue to work on the bonds within the hair strand. If the amount of relaxer residue still left remaining within the hair strand after you have neutralized and moved on is significant, then permanent hair loss and thinning will result.

Neutralizer should be allowed to sit undisturbed on the hair shaft for 3 to 5 minutes before it is rinsed. It must be given sufficient time to actually penetrate the hair shaft, adjust the hair's pH, and halt the chemical reactions taking place deep within the hair strand. A few quick latherings and rinses will not get this done satisfactorily.

**Note: During the neutralizing process (mid-protein and neutralizing shampoo steps), you should make sure that you are not roughing up the cuticle layers of the hair in any way. Always work your post relaxer products down the shaft in one direction. No lathering, or scrunching the hair, etc. The straighter you keep your hair during the neutralizing process, the straighter the hair will turn out in the end. As your hair is neutralizing, your hair's bonds are "freezing" or falling into their final, permanent place. If you direct the hair downward in a straight orientation with care: 1.) You ensure a neat arrangement of bonds in the final turnout and 2.) Reduce permanent damage to the shaft as the cuticles begin closing.

A color indicator is extremely important!
Using a neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator or color alarm will reveal many things to you about the neutralizing process. One is that, relaxer chemicals are not easily removed from the hair shaft. Another is that gentle scalp scrubbing during the neutralizing process will reveal even deeper traces of relaxer. Even with the best basing, some relaxer will breach your protective layer. You must get this deep penetrating relaxer out as soon as possible.

You should insist on using a neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator for all of your relaxer applications. This color alarm acts as a "litmus test " that reads the pH of a particular chemical and produces a tell-tell color to inform you of any chemical change. Relaxers raise the pH of the hair in order to lift and open the hair cuticle for the straightening process. Neutralizing shampoo enters the raised cuticle to lower the pH of the hair and halt the relaxing process. This litmus test is the only way that you can be 100% sure that the hair's pH has been restored to normal levels and that the chemical action of the relaxer has truly stopped within the strand.

Relaxers are not surface-acting chemicals that can easily be rinsed away. These chemicals penetrate the hair shaft very deeply, so one or two quick rinses with a neutralizing shampoo is not enough to halt the relaxer action. With a typical neutralizing shampoo it can take anywhere from 15-45 minutes and several vigorous rinses before the color alarm indicates that you have removed all traces of the relaxer from deep within the hair strand.

But what happens to most of us at a salon? The neutralizer is lathered up, we are rinsed maybe 2 or 3 times, conditioned, and then styled. If this is happening to you . . . run!

Do I really need a neutralizing shampoo? Water is good, right?
Relaxers bring the pH of the hair up to as high as 13 or 14-- so any product that you use on your hair after that will have some sort of a "neutralizing" effect. Even the water with its neutral pH is considered acidic compared to the alkalinity of the hair after a relaxer. This is why we are able to safely do the mid-relaxer protein conditioning step and why some may be able to get away without a "neutralizing shampoo" altogether.

Unfortunately, the pH of water is often not low enough to bring the pH of the relaxed hair (13-14) back down to the normal 4-6 pH range. Almost all regular shampoos have their pHs formulated within this normal 4-6 hair range, and this is why they are said to be "pH balanced." But even a shampoo in the 4-6 pH range may not be enough to totally neutralize and return the hair back to its normal pH. In fact, a regular shampoo would only bring the hair down to a pH of 7-9 from the original 13, which is still slightly alkaline. This is where the neutralizing shampoo comes in. Most of them have lower pHs in the 3-5 range which really helps bring the pH of the relaxed hair down to normal.

STAGE 5: Your Post Relaxer Game Plan
It is very important that you do a protein treatment the wash following your relaxer. Relaxing disturbs the protein bonds in hair so you need to be sure to put some protein back via a good protein treatment. This treatment should come no later than 7 days after your relaxer. Follow the protein treatment immediately with a moisturizing deep conditioning treatment. If you do the mid-protein conditioning step during your relaxer, you may elect to skip this third post-relaxer treatment. I would not skip the first pre-relaxer protein treatment.

If you used a heavy protein the first time during your pre-relaxer preparation steps, go for a milder protein treatment for the one AFTER your relaxer. You do not want to over do it with too much protein.

Good luck!

Halal, John (2002). Hair Structure & Chemistry Simplified. Delmar Publishers.

 

[sunnieb]

Now, I know your brain is about to explode....again, but it'll be okay.

I researched for 2 years before self-relaxing. I wanted to understand each step and why I was doing it.

Also, check out my self-relaxing photo album here. Good luck and please post pics of your daughter's results!

 

[MileHighDiva]

sunnieb, do you process one half at a time like againstallodds?

 

[CharUK]

Thank you so much divachyk , sunnieb and everyone who responded!! This is great. I didn't get a chance to do her hair yesterday, so I'm doing it in half an hour, and I'll do as follows:

Wash with Keracare 1st lather shampoo as she had her hair in braids prior, protein treat with apoghee 2 min reconstructor (for 15 minutes) (please let me know if I should use Elasta QP DR-11 instead) follow up with Motions moisture plus (for half an hour with heat) and the usual leave in/moisturise afterwards.

I've just bought a base as well for when she does the relaxer, I think it was by ORS. I'll print off all the info in the thread and read it, as I retain the info better!

My aunt will be carrying out the relaxer and she is a professional stylist, so we'll have more control over exactly what we want done which is a plus.

Thanks again so much!!

 

[sunnieb]

@sunnieb, do you process one half at a time like againstallodds?

MileHighDiva I process my whole head at once. However, I prep my hair first by sectioning and oiling my previously relaxed hair. Pre-sectioning helps me apply the relaxer faster so I have plenty of smoothing time which yields perfect results.

Looks like this:

 

[CharUK]

CharUK Wow l remember you from nappturality. I even saw myself in your fotki album when we went to cottons lolol.

Haven't got any advice love but your hair looks fab! Your doing a good job with it.

Hey girl!! Thanks!

 

[CharUK]

Grrrr, didn't read the thread properly and missed the co-wash!! Aaaaaah!! divachyk and now I'm seriously hoping the motions wasn't a protein conditioner, I researched and everything pointed to moisture conditioner (I know names can be misleading! LOL)....

It went OK, but I find that as usual, many products just sit on her hair and don't seem to do much, but apparently relaxing helps lift the cuticles and allow moisture in like her natural hair doesn't... In any case, everything is now printed into a little tabbed booklet ( I kid you not) and she's on strict 'no scratch' orders and I'll make up a tea tree spritz to help with the itching, taking care not to use any 2 days before the big day!!

Thanks again all. xxx

 

[divachyk]

CharUK, I find the whole itch thing is kinda mental - kinda like you know you're not suppose to so you want too. But for real, I don't have those urges nearly as much now that I wash weekly and keep the scalp clean.

 

[CharUK]

Hello lovely ladies, I thought I'd come back with the results!! I'm happy for the most part, we did not want bone straight. I would have preferred she waited till her hair was in the best condition, but..

Anyway, my aunt is an old school stylist, but I was firm with her NOT combing through the relaxer, but to use hands and/or back of the comb instead and also very strict on the time from start to finish (10 minutes) I also asked her not to tong my daughters hair, but to rollerset it instead!

Here are the results:





Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Now my daughter needs to research everything she needs to take care of her hair, she's learned to wrap it at night, and to moisturise daily (So far we're using cantu shea butter leave in and HE beautiful ends) She's setting up a twice weekly wash with deep conditioning and light protein (Apoghee 2 min) once a fortnight as her hair is low porosity and this is what I see most LP hair wearers doing.

Wish us luck please!!

Thanks again.
xxx

 

[sunnieb]

Nice results!

 

[Pompous Blue]

CharUK Thanks for posting her results. Her hair looks beautiful.

LHCF is a great resource for taking care of relaxed hair. Such knowledgeable and beautiful hair ladies here.