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Why Lauryl & Laureth in Poos?

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bajanplums1

Well-Known Member
I noticed some shampoos have a lauryl sulfate & a laureth. If the laureth is supposed to be gentler, why use the harsh one too?
 
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bajanplums1 said:
I noticed some shampoos have a lauryl sulfate & a laureth. If the laureth is supposed to be gentler, why use the harsh one too?

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Off hand, I would say cost. Hold on...
 
From http://www.purist.com/faq.htm#q8

Q:What is a "SULFATE"?

SURFACTANTS are the workhorses of cosmetics and toiletries, functioning as cleansers (in facial cleansers, shampoos and body washes), emulsifiers (in face and body creams and lotions) and solubilisers (for dissolving fragrance oils in water-based products such as rose or lavender water). Surfactants are either anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric in nature - depending upon the electric charge of the active part of the molecule.

"Sulfates" is the common use term for a group of anionic cleansing ingredients more correctly known as "alkyl sulfates". As a group, alkyl sulfates are strong irritants. Ammonium lauryl sulfate is the strongest irritant within the group, closely followed by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Alkyl sulfates can undergo a chemical modification to form "ethoxylated alkyl sulfates". These are slightly less irritating than alkyl sulfates, but contain the objectionable impurities, ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane. The most commonly used member of this group is sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). All cleansing cosmetics and toiletries require the addition of an anionic surfactant to ensure that the effectiveness of the product.

Sulfates are universally chosen by the industry due to their strong cleansing power, and very low cost. Apart from sulfates, the other groups of anionic surfactants used in cosmetics are soaps, sulfonates and carboxylates. After considerable research, THE PURIST COMPANY has chosen a carboxylate (sodium cocoyl sarcosinate), and a sulfonate (lauryl sulfoacetate sodium) as replacements for sulfates. Both of these high quality ingredients are plant derived and very mild to human skin and eyes.

Nonionic surfactants (such as sucrose cocoate and lauryl polyglucose) and amphoteric surfactants (such as disodium cocoamphoacetate and cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine) are known for their extreme mildness to skin and eyes, and are added to produce a rich and luxurious cleansing product. Cationic surfactants are most commonly used as detangling ingredients in hair conditioners. The most commonly used detanglers are chlorides (eg cetrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride and behentrimonium chloride). THE PURIST COMPANY has chosen instead a much more expensive methosulfate (behentrimonium methosulfate - derived from canola oil) due to its superior efficacy and far superior safety profile.
 
http://www.purist.com/faq.htm#q5

Q: What is the difference between sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth Sulfate (SLES), and is one safer than the other?

A: SLS is a surface-active substance, or surfactant. These are the workhorses of cosmetics and toiletries. Surfactants are made up of an oil-loving "head", which imbeds into dirt impregnated oil, and a water-loving "tail", which aids in washing the dirt away.

There are three main types of surfactants used in personal care products - cleansers, emulsifiers, and solubilisers. SLS and SLES are primary cleansers. They are usually combined with gentler secondary cleansers. On their own, they are too strong. Both are made from palm oil. However, within the water-loving tail, we find a significant difference between the two.

Both cleansers are made by "sulfating" palm oil. However SLES undergoes a further reaction, to modify its properties. Although making it a little less strong, there are significant drawbacks.

Some chemical reactions result in the formation of toxic impurities. In the case of SLES, this further "ethoxylation" reaction leads to the presence of varying amounts of both unreacted ethylene oxide, and 1,4-dioxane (which forms when two ethylene oxides join). Both of these impurities are toxic, suspected of being carcinogenic, and of major concern to cosmetic safety regulators.

I recommend avoiding products containing SLES (or the ammonium equivalent) for reason of the presence of these so-called "objectionable trace impurities".

SLS should also be avoided, unless it is complexed with cocoamphodiacetate. This combination has been proven to be extremely mild. Ammonium lauryl sulfate is significantly more irritating than SLS, and cannot be complexed to reduce its irritation potential. It should definitely be avoided.
 
So it looks like the laureth may be gentler but the toxicity levels of the manufacturing by-products have regulators on edge so companies shift to back to lauryl. /images/graemlins/scratchchin.gif
 
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