northernbelle
New Member
Spagirl,
The hair care tips you have supplied to the LHCF are fabulous!
Keep them coming!
northernbelle
The hair care tips you have supplied to the LHCF are fabulous!
Keep them coming!
northernbelle
-
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Here are some Spit End tips from Virtualhaircare.com.au.
Split Ends
A common condition, split ends is most often seen in long hair but also found in shorter hair that is out of condition and is an affliction of anyone trying to grow their hair. This problem is easily solved with good hair maintenance and we have put together all the solutions below:
The Causes:
As your hair grows, the natural oils from the scalp (which flows down through the hair to protect it) can fail to reach the ends.
·The ends of your hair are getting "old" once they reach 10 cm (4 inches). They have had a long exposure to the sun, gone through many shampoos and been overheated by hairdryers and tongs. This all results in dry and brittle ends which are prone to splitting.
·Not trimming your hair regularly.
·Damage due to relaxers, perms and colours when done to excess also causes dry brittle ends.
·Poor quality brushes and combs can also cause this problem.
·Some hair types are naturally prone to split ends so they require extra care.
The Cures:
If you already have split ends, a sure cure is to cut them off but that is not always what you want especially if you are growing your hair. Bear in mind that if you don't do something about them then your hair will gradually get shorter anyway because split ends drop off and contiue to split backwards towards the scalp at a faster rate than your hair can grow. To get your hair back into shape and keep it looking that way we suggest you try some of the basic methods below:
·Use specialist products that are designed to seal the splits temporarily in order to catch any splits that are shorter than the length you want to cut your hair to and to allow your hair to grow a little longer before you trim.
·Always condition hair longer than 10cm (4 inches). A weekly treatment is also a good idea especially if your hair is prone to splitting, chemically treated or exposed to harsh elements/heated appliances like tongs and flat irons.(Spagirl note: I think this is were we might say leave-in conditioner)
·Trim regularly (every 6 weeks for shorter hair 8 to 12 weeks for longer hair) and apply regular treatments. Following the advice in our long hair, detangling and conditioning sections will all help.
·Layers in your hair can catch splits that have become really bad which is better than losing lots of length. Discuss this thoroughly with your stylist to ensure that this option is for you.
·If you have had a perm or relaxor, then it is a good idea to get the ends trimmed on the same day.
·Avoid excess heat and too much brushing and combing.
·Invest in a quality combs and real bristle brushes. Throw away combs immediately a tooth is lost and never use metal combs.
What ever you do, if you want to keep your hair long, don't ignore split ends because, as they split they also break away, meaning that your hair is in effect getting shorter every time you brush it!
Split Ends
A common condition, split ends is most often seen in long hair but also found in shorter hair that is out of condition and is an affliction of anyone trying to grow their hair. This problem is easily solved with good hair maintenance and we have put together all the solutions below:
The Causes:
As your hair grows, the natural oils from the scalp (which flows down through the hair to protect it) can fail to reach the ends.
·The ends of your hair are getting "old" once they reach 10 cm (4 inches). They have had a long exposure to the sun, gone through many shampoos and been overheated by hairdryers and tongs. This all results in dry and brittle ends which are prone to splitting.
·Not trimming your hair regularly.
·Damage due to relaxers, perms and colours when done to excess also causes dry brittle ends.
·Poor quality brushes and combs can also cause this problem.
·Some hair types are naturally prone to split ends so they require extra care.
The Cures:
If you already have split ends, a sure cure is to cut them off but that is not always what you want especially if you are growing your hair. Bear in mind that if you don't do something about them then your hair will gradually get shorter anyway because split ends drop off and contiue to split backwards towards the scalp at a faster rate than your hair can grow. To get your hair back into shape and keep it looking that way we suggest you try some of the basic methods below:
·Use specialist products that are designed to seal the splits temporarily in order to catch any splits that are shorter than the length you want to cut your hair to and to allow your hair to grow a little longer before you trim.
·Always condition hair longer than 10cm (4 inches). A weekly treatment is also a good idea especially if your hair is prone to splitting, chemically treated or exposed to harsh elements/heated appliances like tongs and flat irons.(Spagirl note: I think this is were we might say leave-in conditioner)
·Trim regularly (every 6 weeks for shorter hair 8 to 12 weeks for longer hair) and apply regular treatments. Following the advice in our long hair, detangling and conditioning sections will all help.
·Layers in your hair can catch splits that have become really bad which is better than losing lots of length. Discuss this thoroughly with your stylist to ensure that this option is for you.
·If you have had a perm or relaxor, then it is a good idea to get the ends trimmed on the same day.
·Avoid excess heat and too much brushing and combing.
·Invest in a quality combs and real bristle brushes. Throw away combs immediately a tooth is lost and never use metal combs.
What ever you do, if you want to keep your hair long, don't ignore split ends because, as they split they also break away, meaning that your hair is in effect getting shorter every time you brush it!
#63
Product Buildup
Most people have heard the old wives tale "that you should change your shampoo from time to time as it "builds up". This is not entirely untrue as some cheaper products do leave a film on the surface that can build up over time. Your hair and scalp also change constantly and so your shampoo and conditioner needs to change to deal with different concerns.
If your hair looks or feels lifeless, or when you comb or brush it you get a flaky powder along the hair shaft (this is not dandruff!) you may have a product buildup problem.
Buildup occurs when:
Certain products like non-water soluble waxes are used to style the hair.( <font color="blue">Spagirl note: as well as any non-water soluble product including some <font color="red"> "cones"</font>. ) </font>
2 in 1 shampoos are used continuously.
Certain nonprofessional shampoos cause buildup due to the type of cheaper ingredients they use to give instant combability. These can form a film on the hair or you may have to use a large amount to make your hair feel clean also resulting in buildup.
Hair sprays applied too close and in too strong a concentration to one area e.g. the fringe, leave a flaking powder on the hair after brushing.
If gel is applied in a blob it cannot spread through the rest of the hair causing build-up on that spot. We sometimes find that wetting your hands before getting the gel out of the pot and mixing it can solve this problem.
<font color="blue">(Spagirl note: conditioners can cause build up. Especially the ones made to coat the hair that contain "cones".) </font>
To cure a build-up problem:
Use a special purifying shampoo to remove previous products. <font color="blue">(Spagirl note: Use clarifying shampoos or ACV rinses as needed)</font>
Change your habits; apply spray further away from the hair approx. 15cm or 6", work gel around your wet hands before putting it through your hair.
Try a water-soluble wax.
Separate your 2 in 1 shampoo and conditioner by getting a good old fashioned 2-step process.
Use professional products, as the ingredient quality is where the money is spent not on expensive TV ad campaigns.
As a general rule, use less than you think, resulting only in a shape that won't last as long. Too much will leave the hair sticky or heavy and hard to work with.
When applying any product to hair always pop it onto your hands first then work it around them. This will spread the product so that as you put it into the hair you won't get patches of too much.
<font color="blue">(Spagirl note: When left unchecked build up can lead to brittle hair followed by breakage.) </font>
Edited to add:
Brittle hair followed by breakage is referencing build up due to non-water soluble build-up.
Tips from Virtualhaircare.com.au.
Product Buildup
Most people have heard the old wives tale "that you should change your shampoo from time to time as it "builds up". This is not entirely untrue as some cheaper products do leave a film on the surface that can build up over time. Your hair and scalp also change constantly and so your shampoo and conditioner needs to change to deal with different concerns.
If your hair looks or feels lifeless, or when you comb or brush it you get a flaky powder along the hair shaft (this is not dandruff!) you may have a product buildup problem.
Buildup occurs when:
Certain products like non-water soluble waxes are used to style the hair.( <font color="blue">Spagirl note: as well as any non-water soluble product including some <font color="red"> "cones"</font>. ) </font>
2 in 1 shampoos are used continuously.
Certain nonprofessional shampoos cause buildup due to the type of cheaper ingredients they use to give instant combability. These can form a film on the hair or you may have to use a large amount to make your hair feel clean also resulting in buildup.
Hair sprays applied too close and in too strong a concentration to one area e.g. the fringe, leave a flaking powder on the hair after brushing.
If gel is applied in a blob it cannot spread through the rest of the hair causing build-up on that spot. We sometimes find that wetting your hands before getting the gel out of the pot and mixing it can solve this problem.
<font color="blue">(Spagirl note: conditioners can cause build up. Especially the ones made to coat the hair that contain "cones".) </font>
To cure a build-up problem:
Use a special purifying shampoo to remove previous products. <font color="blue">(Spagirl note: Use clarifying shampoos or ACV rinses as needed)</font>
Change your habits; apply spray further away from the hair approx. 15cm or 6", work gel around your wet hands before putting it through your hair.
Try a water-soluble wax.
Separate your 2 in 1 shampoo and conditioner by getting a good old fashioned 2-step process.
Use professional products, as the ingredient quality is where the money is spent not on expensive TV ad campaigns.
As a general rule, use less than you think, resulting only in a shape that won't last as long. Too much will leave the hair sticky or heavy and hard to work with.
When applying any product to hair always pop it onto your hands first then work it around them. This will spread the product so that as you put it into the hair you won't get patches of too much.
<font color="blue">(Spagirl note: When left unchecked build up can lead to brittle hair followed by breakage.) </font>
Edited to add:
Brittle hair followed by breakage is referencing build up due to non-water soluble build-up.
Tips from Virtualhaircare.com.au.
northernbelle
New Member
Wow! I did not realize that product build-up can lead to brittle hair and breakage.
Using a clarifying shampoo is more important than I realized.
Thanks, Spagirl. A very enlightening post.
northernbelle
Using a clarifying shampoo is more important than I realized.
Thanks, Spagirl. A very enlightening post.
northernbelle
Your welcome.
"Brittle hair and breakage" I was referencing my own experience with non-water soluble cones build up. Some people on this forum use ACV rinses regularly to minimize the likelihood of having build up.
I was trying to hold off from sharing this thread here until after I had finished gather more things on breakage but I think you'll enjoy this if you haven't read it already: "Different types of breakage? any ideas?"
"Brittle hair and breakage" I was referencing my own experience with non-water soluble cones build up. Some people on this forum use ACV rinses regularly to minimize the likelihood of having build up.
I was trying to hold off from sharing this thread here until after I had finished gather more things on breakage but I think you'll enjoy this if you haven't read it already: "Different types of breakage? any ideas?"
Here is somethings I found interesting. Though I don't agree with everything found in the tips below I'm still hoping you will find many of the things useful.
African American Hair Care
Reported By Deanna
As we all know, African-American hair runs the gamut, it can be fine, straight, curly, frizzy or kinky. In my immediate family alone, hair textures differ greatly. None of us have the same "type" of hair. This article is presented with the idea that African American hair is different, and although products that work well for me, may not work well for you, the basic hair care techniques are the same. African American hair lends itself to all types of styling opportunities. And, let's face it, mah sistahs, we are very trendy when it comes to the ways we wear our hair. Here's a few tips for "caring" your 'do.
The Basics:
The Stuff Grandmomma Knew but Forgot to Tell You
Always BE GENTLE with your hair, particularly if it has been chemically treated.
a) This includes coloring as well as relaxed hair or curly-permed hair. If you have had chemical treatments, then always treat your hair as though it is damaged, even if you don't have split ends.
Always use a wide toothed comb, even for styling
a) Make sure the teeth of the comb are very smooth. Jagged edges on the teeth will "catch" and pull your hair out.
Invest is a good, natural boar bristle brush.
a) Brushing the hair is to help distribute the natural oils from the scalp down the length of the hair. Use a softer brush and more patience when brushing your hair. My favorite brush Mason Pearman, however, Goody makes a decent, natural boar bristle brush as well.
Tie your hair up at night. This prevents your hair from "catching" on the pillow case and breaking off. This also keeps the natural hair oils in your hair and not in the pillowcase. Tying your hair up doesn't have to be grounds for divorce.
a)Buy some pretty, satin scarves to tie your hair up in. Never use cotton scarves. They will draw the moisture from your hair.
b) <![endif]>Or, invest in some satin pillowcases. They don't have to be expensive ones, just a satiny type of material that will allow the hair to "glide" while you sleep.
5. Check all of your rollers, pins, clips and other styling aids for smooth edges.
a) Just like with the comb, rough edges will "catch" on the hair and pull your hair out, 2 to 3 strands at a time.
b) Avoid elastic bands that are not covered with a smooth, satiny type of material. All of those others (terrycloth covered, material covered, rubber) catch in the hair and will pull it out.
c) Avoid rollers with "teeth". These sharp edges will pull your hair out. Velcro rollers are a "no-no" for the same reason. Use the smooth, magnetic rollers, but never sleep in them. Your hair will thank you.
6. Use less heat on your hair, especially if it is chemically treated or damaged.
a) Styling heat is probably the biggest enemy of African American hair. Reduce the use of heated appliances as much as possible. If you must "bump your ends" then allow your hair to air dry instead of blow-drying it.
b) Instead of heated appliances, try using wet sets once a week, then, wrap your hair at night. This will prolong your style and reduce the amount of heat used on the hair.
Shampooing and Conditioning
"Take Your Time, Do It Right"
1. Use shampoos that have a low pH, somewhere between a 4 or a 5. Acidic shampoos temporarily close the cuticle of the hair (works like sucking on a lemon). If the pH of the shampoo is not located on the bottle, pH-testing papers are available at most drugstores and pharmacies for a nominal cost. Or, use neutralizing shampoos, the "post relaxer" type. These have a low pH because they are used to neutralize the alkaline effects of a relaxer.
2. Use conditioners to detangle and temporarily smooth the hair cuticle. Don't leave a conditioner on longer that is suggested by the manufacturer's instruction. You don't get "more benefit" from leaving it on longer but you may break off more hair. Instant conditioners will help to detangle hair and temporarily coat the hair with protein. Leave on one to three minutes. These are better for natural hair. Deep conditioners are better for chemically treated hair. These usually stay on for 20-30 minutes. Use a heating cap, set on low or medium heat, to help the conditioner temporarily replace the keratin lost through hair damage.
3. While shampooing and conditioning, try not to tangle the hair excessively, I have always found that washing my hair in sections helps to keep the tangles and the frustrations down.
4. Be Patient. Clear all tangles and snarls with the fingers first, then, starting from the bottom, using your wide toothed comb, complete the detangling process. Using an oil lotion at this stage, while the hair is still damp will help keep the hair moisturized and help ease out the tangles.
5. Rinse your hair twice as long as it took to wash it. Shampoo residue will dry your hair and break it off. Focus conditioning on the ends. They are the oldest part of the hair, and more prone to damage.
6. Stay away from Balsam in conditioner. It leaves a clear film on the hair that is excessively drying to African American hair.
Styling
"Fried, Dyed, and Laid to the Side"
As I've said before, African Americans are very trendy and hairstyles change constantly depending on what's in vogue. Here is some basic information on African American styling aids.
Hair Dressings: There are quite a few different types of hairdressings ranging from the gel hairdressings to the heavier pomades. Essentially, hairdressings are lubricants that help the hair not to "catch" on itself or the comb/brush helping to become more "manageable." Most hairdressing will also add varying degrees of shine as well as "control".
Gel Hairdressing: Designed to add shine and help "control" the hair. Example: Let's Jam Power Shine
Cream Hairdressing: Designed to moisturize and add shine, however, they do not provide as much control as the gels. Example: Vitapointe,
Oil Lotions: Heavier weight than cream hairdressing. Add more "control" as well as shine and moisture. Example: Luster's Pink Oil Moisturizer
Pomades: Heavy-duty lubrication, shine and control. There are generally two types, oil based and the water-soluble type. Examples: Dax Hair Pomade (oil type) Ouidad's Clear Control (water-soluble type)
Other Hairdressing: This group includes many of the old standbys like VO5 and Ultra Sheen. These products are great for lubrication, in particular, the ends of the hair. However, too much will cause the hair to look "greasy".
Oil Sheen Sprays:Add extra shine to styled hair.Great for finishing. Examples:Motions Oil Sheen Spray
Some Final Notes
African American hair is extremely versatile and this article does not by any means go over every aspect of African American hair care. However, here are some final tips to keep in mind.
1. Stay away from alcohol based products; look for either Alcohol or SD Alcohol on the label. Then leave it on the shelf. Alcohol is extremely drying to African American hair.
2. Find a good stylist, someone you can trust. Finding a good stylist is an article in itself, so, here are some quick tips:
· Ask about their most recent training: a good stylist invests in continuing education
· If they downgrade your last stylist, leave the premises: This shows poor professionalism. You will pay for this later with bad sets and late appointments.
· Check the products they are using, a good hairstylist will invest in good quality products to use on your hair.
· Remember it's your hair. You must keep in control of the situation. Be courteous, but firm. Don't allow a stylist to perform a service you didn't ask for or tell you that a service "can't be done" on your type of hair. Don't be afraid to get a second opinion.
3. Never rush when doing your hair. Always be patient and GENTLE. If you don't have the time to wash your hair and properly, condition, detangle and style it, don't do it. >Wait until you do have the time.
4. Never relax and color your own hair, have a professional do it. Yes, I know we have all done this, but we shouldn't. Here's why. For the most part, home relaxer kits contain a lot of calcium, (go ahead and check, I'll wait) which will build up on the hair and make it less manageable. So, at worst, go to a Beauty Supply store and buy professional products and have someone else perform these services. At best, go to your stylist and have them done professionally. You want to keep your hair on your head, not in your hands.
African American hair is extremely versatile, however, it needs to be treated with gently respect at all times. This is your crowning glory, your mane and an expression of your individuality. Take time to take care of your hair and your hair will take care of the rest.
Tips from beautybuzz.com
African American Hair Care
Reported By Deanna
As we all know, African-American hair runs the gamut, it can be fine, straight, curly, frizzy or kinky. In my immediate family alone, hair textures differ greatly. None of us have the same "type" of hair. This article is presented with the idea that African American hair is different, and although products that work well for me, may not work well for you, the basic hair care techniques are the same. African American hair lends itself to all types of styling opportunities. And, let's face it, mah sistahs, we are very trendy when it comes to the ways we wear our hair. Here's a few tips for "caring" your 'do.
The Basics:
The Stuff Grandmomma Knew but Forgot to Tell You
Always BE GENTLE with your hair, particularly if it has been chemically treated.
a) This includes coloring as well as relaxed hair or curly-permed hair. If you have had chemical treatments, then always treat your hair as though it is damaged, even if you don't have split ends.
Always use a wide toothed comb, even for styling
a) Make sure the teeth of the comb are very smooth. Jagged edges on the teeth will "catch" and pull your hair out.
Invest is a good, natural boar bristle brush.
a) Brushing the hair is to help distribute the natural oils from the scalp down the length of the hair. Use a softer brush and more patience when brushing your hair. My favorite brush Mason Pearman, however, Goody makes a decent, natural boar bristle brush as well.
Tie your hair up at night. This prevents your hair from "catching" on the pillow case and breaking off. This also keeps the natural hair oils in your hair and not in the pillowcase. Tying your hair up doesn't have to be grounds for divorce.
a)Buy some pretty, satin scarves to tie your hair up in. Never use cotton scarves. They will draw the moisture from your hair.
b) <![endif]>Or, invest in some satin pillowcases. They don't have to be expensive ones, just a satiny type of material that will allow the hair to "glide" while you sleep.
5. Check all of your rollers, pins, clips and other styling aids for smooth edges.
a) Just like with the comb, rough edges will "catch" on the hair and pull your hair out, 2 to 3 strands at a time.
b) Avoid elastic bands that are not covered with a smooth, satiny type of material. All of those others (terrycloth covered, material covered, rubber) catch in the hair and will pull it out.
c) Avoid rollers with "teeth". These sharp edges will pull your hair out. Velcro rollers are a "no-no" for the same reason. Use the smooth, magnetic rollers, but never sleep in them. Your hair will thank you.
6. Use less heat on your hair, especially if it is chemically treated or damaged.
a) Styling heat is probably the biggest enemy of African American hair. Reduce the use of heated appliances as much as possible. If you must "bump your ends" then allow your hair to air dry instead of blow-drying it.
b) Instead of heated appliances, try using wet sets once a week, then, wrap your hair at night. This will prolong your style and reduce the amount of heat used on the hair.
Shampooing and Conditioning
"Take Your Time, Do It Right"
1. Use shampoos that have a low pH, somewhere between a 4 or a 5. Acidic shampoos temporarily close the cuticle of the hair (works like sucking on a lemon). If the pH of the shampoo is not located on the bottle, pH-testing papers are available at most drugstores and pharmacies for a nominal cost. Or, use neutralizing shampoos, the "post relaxer" type. These have a low pH because they are used to neutralize the alkaline effects of a relaxer.
2. Use conditioners to detangle and temporarily smooth the hair cuticle. Don't leave a conditioner on longer that is suggested by the manufacturer's instruction. You don't get "more benefit" from leaving it on longer but you may break off more hair. Instant conditioners will help to detangle hair and temporarily coat the hair with protein. Leave on one to three minutes. These are better for natural hair. Deep conditioners are better for chemically treated hair. These usually stay on for 20-30 minutes. Use a heating cap, set on low or medium heat, to help the conditioner temporarily replace the keratin lost through hair damage.
3. While shampooing and conditioning, try not to tangle the hair excessively, I have always found that washing my hair in sections helps to keep the tangles and the frustrations down.
4. Be Patient. Clear all tangles and snarls with the fingers first, then, starting from the bottom, using your wide toothed comb, complete the detangling process. Using an oil lotion at this stage, while the hair is still damp will help keep the hair moisturized and help ease out the tangles.
5. Rinse your hair twice as long as it took to wash it. Shampoo residue will dry your hair and break it off. Focus conditioning on the ends. They are the oldest part of the hair, and more prone to damage.
6. Stay away from Balsam in conditioner. It leaves a clear film on the hair that is excessively drying to African American hair.
Styling
"Fried, Dyed, and Laid to the Side"
As I've said before, African Americans are very trendy and hairstyles change constantly depending on what's in vogue. Here is some basic information on African American styling aids.
Hair Dressings: There are quite a few different types of hairdressings ranging from the gel hairdressings to the heavier pomades. Essentially, hairdressings are lubricants that help the hair not to "catch" on itself or the comb/brush helping to become more "manageable." Most hairdressing will also add varying degrees of shine as well as "control".
Gel Hairdressing: Designed to add shine and help "control" the hair. Example: Let's Jam Power Shine
Cream Hairdressing: Designed to moisturize and add shine, however, they do not provide as much control as the gels. Example: Vitapointe,
Oil Lotions: Heavier weight than cream hairdressing. Add more "control" as well as shine and moisture. Example: Luster's Pink Oil Moisturizer
Pomades: Heavy-duty lubrication, shine and control. There are generally two types, oil based and the water-soluble type. Examples: Dax Hair Pomade (oil type) Ouidad's Clear Control (water-soluble type)
Other Hairdressing: This group includes many of the old standbys like VO5 and Ultra Sheen. These products are great for lubrication, in particular, the ends of the hair. However, too much will cause the hair to look "greasy".
Oil Sheen Sprays:Add extra shine to styled hair.Great for finishing. Examples:Motions Oil Sheen Spray
Some Final Notes
African American hair is extremely versatile and this article does not by any means go over every aspect of African American hair care. However, here are some final tips to keep in mind.
1. Stay away from alcohol based products; look for either Alcohol or SD Alcohol on the label. Then leave it on the shelf. Alcohol is extremely drying to African American hair.
2. Find a good stylist, someone you can trust. Finding a good stylist is an article in itself, so, here are some quick tips:
· Ask about their most recent training: a good stylist invests in continuing education
· If they downgrade your last stylist, leave the premises: This shows poor professionalism. You will pay for this later with bad sets and late appointments.
· Check the products they are using, a good hairstylist will invest in good quality products to use on your hair.
· Remember it's your hair. You must keep in control of the situation. Be courteous, but firm. Don't allow a stylist to perform a service you didn't ask for or tell you that a service "can't be done" on your type of hair. Don't be afraid to get a second opinion.
3. Never rush when doing your hair. Always be patient and GENTLE. If you don't have the time to wash your hair and properly, condition, detangle and style it, don't do it. >Wait until you do have the time.
4. Never relax and color your own hair, have a professional do it. Yes, I know we have all done this, but we shouldn't. Here's why. For the most part, home relaxer kits contain a lot of calcium, (go ahead and check, I'll wait) which will build up on the hair and make it less manageable. So, at worst, go to a Beauty Supply store and buy professional products and have someone else perform these services. At best, go to your stylist and have them done professionally. You want to keep your hair on your head, not in your hands.
African American hair is extremely versatile, however, it needs to be treated with gently respect at all times. This is your crowning glory, your mane and an expression of your individuality. Take time to take care of your hair and your hair will take care of the rest.
Tips from beautybuzz.com
Here is the info I promised I'd post (note bold section below). Again, as I have said in the past, take which is of use or works for you and discard the rest. Enjoy!
Newbies: Some tips are based on all hair types in general. Keep in mind the needs of African American(AA) hair when reading tips and adjust the tips according. Example: Shampooing more than once a week could be too much for AA hair. Using a conditioner as a substitute when washing more than once a week could be better. HTH!
In a Cutting Mood?
Before you snip off your do-nothing hair, stop and assess your arsenal of shampoos, conditioners and styling products. They may be what's dragging your hair -- and your mood -- down.
Hair rehab
8 steps to making every day a great hair day
By Leesa Suzman
Great hair doesn't always come from a bottle of designer shampoo or the skillful hands of a celebrity stylist. Sometimes it's a combination of seemingly inconsequential factors, like when you apply conditioner and a selection of styling aids, that work together in perfect synergy. Once you get it right, it will seem like second nature.
So we asked some of the nation's top stylists and colorists for their best and brightest techniques for getting locks to shine, bounce and otherwise obey your commands. Try the eight-step program they came up with, and you're guaranteed to have plenty of great hair days ahead.
1. Measure your hair’s health. Healthy hair is shiny, supple and silky. If none of these adjectives applies to your locks, take a strand test to identify what could be doing the damage: Pull a wet strand from your scalp and stretch it out. "It should stretch one-fifth of its length without breaking, then bounce back," says Luke O'Connor, owner of the LuKaRo Salon in Beverly Hills, Calif. If it breaks, it's lacking moisture.
If the hair keeps stretching, it's lacking protein, probably due to chemical treatments that have weakened the bonds in each strand -- like color processes, straightening or perms. The right conditioning treatments can help in both cases (see step 5 for some product suggestions).
2. Opt for a cut that has substance as well as style. If your hair takes more than 15 minutes to style and even then seems misshapen, you've got the wrong cut. Next time you go to the salon, meet with your stylist before you shampoo to talk about alternatives that will work with your natural texture.
Also: Consider a cut that flatters your face shape. A square jaw will be softened by a loose, layered cut. Bangs (swept to the side if you don't want to get regular trims) complement a longer face, and a center part balances a round face.
3. Find a hue that’s you. The golden rule of low-maintenance, low-risk, great-looking color is to go one shade brighter or darker than your normal hue. Then you can keep kicking it up a notch, but you won't be in for any big surprises along the way.
Just be sure that whatever shade you choose contrasts with your skin tone: "If everything matches too well, you'll look washed out and need more makeup," says colorist Stuart Gavert of the Gavert Atelier in Beverly Hills and Peter Coppola Salon in New York City.
Finally, if your dye job goes horribly wrong, ask your colorist to fix it. Most salons will grant you a grace period of a week or two to request a free redo.
4. Discover your shampoo type. You can't miss with a shampoo formulated for your hair type. And labels on reputable brands don't lie. So if you have fine or oily hair, choose a volume-building formula like Physique Amplifying Shampoo or Redken Solve Purifying Shampoo that will get rid of excess oils on the hair without drying it out.
If your hair is dry or chemically treated, look for a moisturizing shampoo (try Aveda Sap Moss Shampoo). Color-protecting shampoos like Matrix Biolage Color Care Shampoo include UV filters that prevent bright, bold hues from fading or dulling too fast. And someone with normal hair that feels neither oily nor dry by the day's end should opt for a balancing shampoo like Bath & Body Works Bio Balancing Shampoo that gives a light, all-over clean feeling.
Whatever you choose, make sure to switch brands every bottle or two to avoid build-up. And, FYI, you only need to shampoo twice if you've piled on a lot of styling products (despite what the bottle may say).
5. Condition wisely and sparingly. The secret to conditioning your hair depends on two variables: application technique and hair type. Unless your hair is chemically treated or particularly porous, you can focus conditioner on your ends, especially if your hair tends to get oily by the end of the day (try a mild conditioner, like J.F. Lazartigue Detangling and Nourishing Conditioner). That's because by the time you're done washing, the natural oils from your scalp will already have made it halfway down the hair shaft, according to Jamie Mazzei, creative director of the Nubest & Co. Salon in Manhasset, N.Y.
To choose between different types of problem-solving conditioners, go back and do the strand test above (see step 1). If your hair is limp and frayed, use a protein conditioner that fills in the hair cuticle like Pantene Pro-V Sheer Volume Conditioner. If it's dry and snaps off easily, use a moisturizing conditioner like Origins Happy Endings.
6. Once a week, treat your locks to intensive hair-apy. Deep conditioning treatments can calm stressed strands, but they won't solve problems like split ends or weak, frazzled locks unless you're on a regular regimen. Stylists advise deep conditioning once a week right after you cut your hair. That's because a trim is the only way to repair hair once the damage is done.
To find the right ingredients for your intensive conditioner, follow the conditioner guidelines in step 5. Some suggestions: L'Oréal ColorVIVE Dry Defense 3-Minute Conditioning Treatment for hair that feels rough and breaks easily, and Joico K-Pak for hair that lacks strength and bounce.
Or, to turn any conditioner into a deep treatment, wash hair with a clarifying shampoo (like Thermasilk Clarifying Shampoo) to get rid of excess residue, then put on the conditioner and a shower cap, and stand under a hot spray for 10 minutes or more. The heat will help the conditioner penetrate deep into the hair shaft.
7. Update your styling arsenal. Heavy, sticky mousses and gels are great at creating volume and slick styles, respectively, but the new styling aids out there are lighter and at least as effective. Look for products that promise the style you're hoping to create (key words are curling, straightening, shine, hold) such as Clinique Defined Curls, Redken Straight, Terax TeraGloss and Physique Styling Spray.
A sure-fire way to find the right ones is to ask your stylist for her picks. Though her "prescription" may cost a bit more, you could end up spending less money if you hit on something that really works.
Finally, don't be sold on the notion that you need one product for the roots, one for the shaft and another for the ends. The latest innovations, like straightening balms, volumizing sprays and smoothing serums, are designed to be used -- sparingly -- all over.
8. End a bum stylist/colorist "relationship." Industry experts will tell you that a long relationship with a hair specialist will yield the best results (he or she has the chance to get to know you and your hair intimately).
But even if your stylist has more women trying to get his attention than Warren Beatty in "Shampoo," you should feel listened to and cared for. If not, dump him. Find someone whose hair you love and ask her who she's going to. Then schedule a consultation (most stylists and colorists offer them for free) and come armed with photos of what you think would look great on you. Visual aids can really save the day when everyone seems to have a different definition of words like "short," "blond" and "just a trim."
Tips from Shape.com (Shape magazine)
Newbies: Some tips are based on all hair types in general. Keep in mind the needs of African American(AA) hair when reading tips and adjust the tips according. Example: Shampooing more than once a week could be too much for AA hair. Using a conditioner as a substitute when washing more than once a week could be better. HTH!
In a Cutting Mood?
Before you snip off your do-nothing hair, stop and assess your arsenal of shampoos, conditioners and styling products. They may be what's dragging your hair -- and your mood -- down.
Hair rehab
8 steps to making every day a great hair day
By Leesa Suzman
Great hair doesn't always come from a bottle of designer shampoo or the skillful hands of a celebrity stylist. Sometimes it's a combination of seemingly inconsequential factors, like when you apply conditioner and a selection of styling aids, that work together in perfect synergy. Once you get it right, it will seem like second nature.
So we asked some of the nation's top stylists and colorists for their best and brightest techniques for getting locks to shine, bounce and otherwise obey your commands. Try the eight-step program they came up with, and you're guaranteed to have plenty of great hair days ahead.
1. Measure your hair’s health. Healthy hair is shiny, supple and silky. If none of these adjectives applies to your locks, take a strand test to identify what could be doing the damage: Pull a wet strand from your scalp and stretch it out. "It should stretch one-fifth of its length without breaking, then bounce back," says Luke O'Connor, owner of the LuKaRo Salon in Beverly Hills, Calif. If it breaks, it's lacking moisture.
If the hair keeps stretching, it's lacking protein, probably due to chemical treatments that have weakened the bonds in each strand -- like color processes, straightening or perms. The right conditioning treatments can help in both cases (see step 5 for some product suggestions).
2. Opt for a cut that has substance as well as style. If your hair takes more than 15 minutes to style and even then seems misshapen, you've got the wrong cut. Next time you go to the salon, meet with your stylist before you shampoo to talk about alternatives that will work with your natural texture.
Also: Consider a cut that flatters your face shape. A square jaw will be softened by a loose, layered cut. Bangs (swept to the side if you don't want to get regular trims) complement a longer face, and a center part balances a round face.
3. Find a hue that’s you. The golden rule of low-maintenance, low-risk, great-looking color is to go one shade brighter or darker than your normal hue. Then you can keep kicking it up a notch, but you won't be in for any big surprises along the way.
Just be sure that whatever shade you choose contrasts with your skin tone: "If everything matches too well, you'll look washed out and need more makeup," says colorist Stuart Gavert of the Gavert Atelier in Beverly Hills and Peter Coppola Salon in New York City.
Finally, if your dye job goes horribly wrong, ask your colorist to fix it. Most salons will grant you a grace period of a week or two to request a free redo.
4. Discover your shampoo type. You can't miss with a shampoo formulated for your hair type. And labels on reputable brands don't lie. So if you have fine or oily hair, choose a volume-building formula like Physique Amplifying Shampoo or Redken Solve Purifying Shampoo that will get rid of excess oils on the hair without drying it out.
If your hair is dry or chemically treated, look for a moisturizing shampoo (try Aveda Sap Moss Shampoo). Color-protecting shampoos like Matrix Biolage Color Care Shampoo include UV filters that prevent bright, bold hues from fading or dulling too fast. And someone with normal hair that feels neither oily nor dry by the day's end should opt for a balancing shampoo like Bath & Body Works Bio Balancing Shampoo that gives a light, all-over clean feeling.
Whatever you choose, make sure to switch brands every bottle or two to avoid build-up. And, FYI, you only need to shampoo twice if you've piled on a lot of styling products (despite what the bottle may say).
5. Condition wisely and sparingly. The secret to conditioning your hair depends on two variables: application technique and hair type. Unless your hair is chemically treated or particularly porous, you can focus conditioner on your ends, especially if your hair tends to get oily by the end of the day (try a mild conditioner, like J.F. Lazartigue Detangling and Nourishing Conditioner). That's because by the time you're done washing, the natural oils from your scalp will already have made it halfway down the hair shaft, according to Jamie Mazzei, creative director of the Nubest & Co. Salon in Manhasset, N.Y.
To choose between different types of problem-solving conditioners, go back and do the strand test above (see step 1). If your hair is limp and frayed, use a protein conditioner that fills in the hair cuticle like Pantene Pro-V Sheer Volume Conditioner. If it's dry and snaps off easily, use a moisturizing conditioner like Origins Happy Endings.
6. Once a week, treat your locks to intensive hair-apy. Deep conditioning treatments can calm stressed strands, but they won't solve problems like split ends or weak, frazzled locks unless you're on a regular regimen. Stylists advise deep conditioning once a week right after you cut your hair. That's because a trim is the only way to repair hair once the damage is done.
To find the right ingredients for your intensive conditioner, follow the conditioner guidelines in step 5. Some suggestions: L'Oréal ColorVIVE Dry Defense 3-Minute Conditioning Treatment for hair that feels rough and breaks easily, and Joico K-Pak for hair that lacks strength and bounce.
Or, to turn any conditioner into a deep treatment, wash hair with a clarifying shampoo (like Thermasilk Clarifying Shampoo) to get rid of excess residue, then put on the conditioner and a shower cap, and stand under a hot spray for 10 minutes or more. The heat will help the conditioner penetrate deep into the hair shaft.
7. Update your styling arsenal. Heavy, sticky mousses and gels are great at creating volume and slick styles, respectively, but the new styling aids out there are lighter and at least as effective. Look for products that promise the style you're hoping to create (key words are curling, straightening, shine, hold) such as Clinique Defined Curls, Redken Straight, Terax TeraGloss and Physique Styling Spray.
A sure-fire way to find the right ones is to ask your stylist for her picks. Though her "prescription" may cost a bit more, you could end up spending less money if you hit on something that really works.
Finally, don't be sold on the notion that you need one product for the roots, one for the shaft and another for the ends. The latest innovations, like straightening balms, volumizing sprays and smoothing serums, are designed to be used -- sparingly -- all over.
8. End a bum stylist/colorist "relationship." Industry experts will tell you that a long relationship with a hair specialist will yield the best results (he or she has the chance to get to know you and your hair intimately).
But even if your stylist has more women trying to get his attention than Warren Beatty in "Shampoo," you should feel listened to and cared for. If not, dump him. Find someone whose hair you love and ask her who she's going to. Then schedule a consultation (most stylists and colorists offer them for free) and come armed with photos of what you think would look great on you. Visual aids can really save the day when everyone seems to have a different definition of words like "short," "blond" and "just a trim."
Tips from Shape.com (Shape magazine)
madamebutterfly
New Member
Spagirl, thanks to you (and many others at this forum)
I have been Enlightened once again!
That website on natural hair care was EXCELLENT.
Highly informative. I feel like I will really be able to get
my "hay" back into condition and with out all
the product-Mystery...
: )
m.b.
I have been Enlightened once again!
That website on natural hair care was EXCELLENT.
Highly informative. I feel like I will really be able to get
my "hay" back into condition and with out all
the product-Mystery...
: )
m.b.
sillygurl18
New Member
hey, i found a website, but since I don't think I can make a direct link I'll tell you how to get there:Go to
treasuredlocks.com
in the search put black hair care and go to the second link on the page.
treasuredlocks.com
in the search put black hair care and go to the second link on the page.
To keep this valuable info from forever being lost here are parts of a few tip from Treasuredlocks. com (thanks SillyGurl).
African American Hair Structure
What's different about our hair? Why do we need different products and routines? African hair is made of the same “stuff” as non-African hair. The difference lies in the way those components are put together or the structure of our hair. The structure of our hair can cause it to be more prone to breakage and dryness. Because of this, black hair care needs are is different from those for other types of hair. Our hair can have up to twice the amount of “cuticle” or outer layer. Our hair is kinkier which makes it more difficult for the oil secreted from our scalps to reach the ends of the hair. But, keep in mind there is a continuum of hair types. Especially since most of us are of mixed heritage, African American hair and bi-racial people's hair can vary widely. Even within a single head of hair, there are different hair types. So, there is no one solution for the care of all African American hair. However, it is helpful to know, generally, what type of hair you have.....Intuitively, you might think African hair is "tougher" than Caucasian hair and can handle more stress or abuse. After all, it is coarser and thicker. Actually, African hair (especially if treated like European hair) is more fragile than Caucasian hair. For this reason, we suggest using products made especially for our hair, whenever possible. Today, there is a wide range of excellent products made specifically for the needs of African American or Textured hair.
The parts that make up your hair are:
Cuticle: Outer layer of the hair. It is made up of layers of scales which interlock with the cells of the hair's inner root sheath to firmly anchor it in the follicle. This is a thin and colorless layer. Black hairs cuticle layer can be twice the thickness of that of white hair.
Cortex: The middle layer. It is composed of cells which are tightly bound around one another. These bands provide the hair with elasticity and strength and are very receptive to chemicals. As a result, they can easily be influenced (or damaged) by dyes and relaxers.
Melanin: is contained in the cortex and is the substance that determines the color of our hair and skin. The more melanin, the darker the hair or skin.
Follicle: This is the name for hair before it emerges from the skin. Follicles are composed of many elements including carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Healthy amounts of these elements can improve the hairs' condition and appearance once it emerges.
Sebaceous/Sudoniferous Glands: Attached to the hair follicle are the sebaceous (oil) and the sudoriferous (sweat) glands. The sebaceous glands open and close continuously to release a waxy sebum oil into the hair follicle and onto the scalp. The sudoriferous glands contain many small structures with porous openings leading to the skin. They produce substances which dry on the skin including salts, acids, water and bacteria. If not completely dissolved and effectively removed from the scalp, they can help cause severe itching and dandruff. Thus, the scalp problems some people experience in the early stages of locs.
How does a relaxer work?
Time for a really quick science lesson (keep reading, it will be really quick and painless, I promise). There is a scale called a pH scale. It ranges from 0-14. Water is right in the middle with a pH of 7 and is "neutral" (neither acidic or basic). Substances with higher pH are called alkali, caustic or basic. Solutions with lower pH are called acidic. The farther from the number 7 (either high or low), the more the solution will do in terms of burning or breaking chemical bonds. The pH scale is a logarithmic scale. What that means is a whole number difference is greater than you might think. A solution that is pH 8 is ten times more basic than a solution that is ph 7. One that is a pH 5 is 100 times more acidic than a pH7. That's as far as we need to go for our purposes. End of lesson. Relaxers, whether lye or no lye, have a very high pH (very near the top of the scale). In other words, they are caustic.
Relaxers work on the same principle as commercial products like Liquid Plumr® that you'd buy to remove hair from your sink or drain. Relaxers break the hair down. Relaxers work because they break the bonds that actually give strength to the hair. This causes the hair to straighten. Therefore, relaxed hair is, by definition, weaker than natural hair. Relaxers also deplete the hair of sebum (the oil your scalp secretes). Combine that with heat and you can really end up with a problem. That's why it is of the utmost importance to be careful when putting in relaxers and to give relaxed hair the best care possible.
Does this mean we are against relaxers? Absolutely not. If a quality relaxer is applied properly and the hair is maintained properly, your hair can definitely be healthy. However, your hair will be weaker than if it were natural and will be more prone to problems. These problems are not insurmountable as long as you are aware of how to take care of your hair.
What are the hair care basics?
You should picture your hair as a collection of fine fibers. You should treat it as gently as you would a fine washable silk blouse. The better you treat your hair, the easier it will be to grow and the better it will look. African hair will tend to be dryer and more prone to breakage because the structure makes it more difficult for the oils to work their way from the scalp to the ends of the hair. If you relax your hair, you've weakened the hair and reduced the ability for the scalp to naturally oil it. The points where the hair curls and twists are also points where the hair tends to break. The more of these points (as in African hair), the more the hair is prone to breakage. Also, because our hair is kinky, it tends to tangle more and pulling these tangles out can cause breakage.
Either section the hair and plait it, tie it back or wrap it up using a scarf (we sell a mesh one specifically for this) before going to bed, this will reduce the number of tangles you have to comb out the next morning, reducing the chances of breaking your hair. We have a fairly large selection of things to wear while you're sleeping. Sleep caps
Sleep with a satin scarf or sleep cap on your your head or with a satin pillow case. This helps avoid split ends caused by the rubbing of your hair against a "rough" cotton pillow case.
Wash your hair no more often than every week to week and a half. More than that can dry it out.
Comb your hair out while you're conditioning it to remove the tangles while it's wet and relatively slick.
Oil your scalp on a regular basis with a good natural oil like shea butter. A daily moisturizer is not a bad idea.
Do a deep conditioner or hot oil treatment once a month.
Massage your scalp on a regular basis to promote circulation and oil production.
Avoid overuse of products with mineral oil or petroleum. They tend to block the pores and are not readily absorbed. If your mother used Vaseline® on your hair, stop.
If you exercise and sweat, rinse the salt out of your hair even if you don't wash it. Condition it afterwards with a daily leave-in conditioner.
Always use a leave-in conditioner after washing your hair.
Put as little heat as possible on your hair. Heat, especially combined with perms is very damaging to hair.
Avoid alcohol based products unless you have a need for a water-free shampoo to cleanse your scalp (for example while you're waiting for your locks to lock).
Remember that water (moisture) is your friend and get plenty- inside and out. If you used to press your hair or blow it out and learned to fear water on your hair because it would draw up, you need to get over this. Spritzing a little water on your hair every day is a good idea. Get a spray bottle and just spray it just a little.
Eat a proper diet. Vitamins and protein are essential for proper hair growth.
Find a style that works with your natural hair type and growth pattern. The less you work against your hair, the less stressed it will be.
Do not relax your hair until it is bone straight. This is just asking for trouble. Why relax your hair until it has absolutely no body or curl and then put heat on it to try to get that curl back?
Some tools you should have in your kit:
A good shampoo: They will be more expensive. But, they'll use more gentle cleansers and be more concentrated. You may find they save you money in the long run. And, your hair will definitely show the difference. We offer several.
A good acidifier (a conditioner with a low pH): Acidifying the hair adds shine and detangles. ebene Naturals' Conditioning Herbal Vinegar Rinse is perfect for this purpose.
A good hot oil treatment or deep conditioner: We highly recommend the Saniyyah...Naturally Lemongrass Hot Oil Treatment. It is an all natural based shea butter treatment. Apply the conditioner or hot oil treatment to the hair and scalp, cover with a plastic cap and sit under a dryer for 15-20 minutes. Alternatively, you can wrap your head in a towel. Then wash the hair thoroughly. This is very important for for dry brittle hair.
A good leave in conditioner or daily moisturizer: This is what you'll put on your hair after you've thoroughly cleaned it to continue to provide oil and moisture.
A comb for your hair type. Don't try to drag one of those skinny toothed combs through your natural kinky or curly hair. You'll just end up pulling it out and breaking it off.
A good boar bristle brush (use sparingly though)
A spray bottle to mist your hair
A scarf, cap, or wrap to wear on your head at night- or a satin pillow case (well, two)
Which oils should I use (and avoid)?
Oils, pomades, daily moisturizers, leave-in conditioner and creams will make the hair feel more soft and flexible. They are particularly important to be added to permed hair which has been stripped of some of its ability to oil itself. Mineral oil and petroleum use should be minimized or avoided. These products can tend to clog the pores, are not easily absorbed into the hair and attract dust. If you use products with these oils, try to use the ones that have the least amount. Generally, the further down the ingredient list, the less there will be in a product. So, try to use products where these are listed near the end.
Some natural oils to try are shea butter, jojoba oil, olive oil, and sunflower oil. We have a great selection of oils, pomades and moisturizers for every hair type and style.
Oils are best applied to wet hair to help hold in the moisture already there. Creams or leave-in conditioners can be used on days when you don't wash or wet your hair. The type of oil or cream you use in your hair is going to depend on your hair type and may take a little it of experimenting to find what works best for you. Also, the time of year and your hair's exposure to the elements will vary your routine.
How often should I wash my hair?
This will depend on your hair type and how prone your hair is to drying or becoming oily. As we said earlier, not all African Americans have the same type of hair. Generally speaking, our hair tends to be dry and shampooing too often will worsen that. Rinsing your hair with plain water every day and washing once every week to ten days works for most of us. Bi-racial people may want to wash their hair more often as it may tend to be more oily. BTW, when you dry your hair, do not rub it. Rubbing your hair can cause breakage. Blot it with a towel.
How do I handle permed hair?
First of all, make sure you have a good stylist. If you do apply your perm at home (which we do not encourage), be sure you follow the directions religiously. Make sure you apply touch ups only to new growth. Do not overlap the the perm on to the already permed hair. Follow the general directions for hair care above.
Now...
Dry your hair slowly and with as little heat as possible. I try to allow a couple of hours to wash my hair. I wash it and towel blot it. I apply a hair and scalp oil. Then, I walk around the house for a couple of hours and let it air dry as much as possible. Finally, I blow it dry the rest of the way and begin my conditioning and styling routine.
Wet your hair as much as possible (at least twice a week). Spritz it with water daily or rinse it in the shower every day or two.
Use a leave-in conditioner and/or moisturizing pomade. Again, this is especially important for relaxed hair as you've stripped the hair of some of its ability to oil itself and its protection against moisture loss.
Have your hair trimmed on a regular basis (whenever you have a perm applied). If your ends split, this split can travel along the hair shaft causing damage to the hair further up. Don't hang on to damaged hair for the sake of its length. If your hair has been damaged by a bad perm or general abuse, trim it back and let the healthy hair grow out to make up for it. Keeping the damaged hair around can actually begin to damage the healthy hair.
Touch up frequency will vary depending on your hair type and how fast it grows. I need to go pretty often. Two to three months is fairly normal.
How do I handle natural hair?
If you have super curly, kinky or (dare we say it?) nappy hair, your hair is best handled wet. You may find it easiest to comb it with a wide tooth comb while in the shower. Give up on that skinny little European comb and get one made for your hair. Try to avoid combing your hair while dry as the comb will tend to catch and break the hair. If you need to comb your hair while it's dry, be gentle. Try to spritz with some water or a cream first. You can use an unbraid product like Black Earth's Protective Mist Bodifier or Better Braids Unbraid. If you're unbraiding your hair and get to some tangles, pull them loose with your fingers before you go on combing. Other than this, follow the basic guidelines above.
How do I transition from relaxed to natural hair?
This one is a very frequently asked question. We get calls and e-mails from people hoping we can tell them what they want to hear. The true answer is there is no really quick or easy way. To reiterate (in case you haven't read the other questions). A relaxer is permanent. It cannot be removed. There are no products that will remove a relaxer (other than scissors). If you want to just grow your hair out to a natural state, be prepared for breakage. Baka Beautiful's Natural-Laxer is a great product if you want to maintain your length while transitioning. We cannot guarantee there will be no breakage. But, the Natural-Laxer can definitely help minimize it. There are three good ways to transition:
Cut off the relaxed hair- depending on how much new growth and your preferences you have a few styling options. You can wear a TWA (tweeny weeny afro) or two strand twists pretty easily with almost any length hair. For other styling ideas, Ourhair.net or Hairweb.com
Braids and/or extensions- you can have your hair braided until it grows to a length where you feel comfortable cutting off the new growth and going with other styling options
SisterlocksTM- SisterLocks can be started with one and one half inches of new growth at the scalp. They are similar to dread locks but with a look more like micro braids or very small twists. They leave you with many styling options. For more information (including pictures) go to sisterlocks.com
Find a transition style- This great tip was given to us by one of our customers. "I just wanted to send you another hair styling option for those who don't know what to do while growing out a perm and going natural. I recently did this and when my roots began growing out, I would wet my hair and add oil to it, then braid it while it was wet (Black Earth's Crinkles & Curls Styling Lotion would be perfect for this). After it dried, my hair was left wavy and with lots of texture and this helped to blend the natural roots with the permed ends. It is important to keep your ends clipped regularly during this process so that your split ends do not continue up the hair shaft and damage the natural hair. I was able to wear my hair like this until I was comfortable with cutting all of my permed hair off and wearing my 'fro.".....
African American Hair Structure
What's different about our hair? Why do we need different products and routines? African hair is made of the same “stuff” as non-African hair. The difference lies in the way those components are put together or the structure of our hair. The structure of our hair can cause it to be more prone to breakage and dryness. Because of this, black hair care needs are is different from those for other types of hair. Our hair can have up to twice the amount of “cuticle” or outer layer. Our hair is kinkier which makes it more difficult for the oil secreted from our scalps to reach the ends of the hair. But, keep in mind there is a continuum of hair types. Especially since most of us are of mixed heritage, African American hair and bi-racial people's hair can vary widely. Even within a single head of hair, there are different hair types. So, there is no one solution for the care of all African American hair. However, it is helpful to know, generally, what type of hair you have.....Intuitively, you might think African hair is "tougher" than Caucasian hair and can handle more stress or abuse. After all, it is coarser and thicker. Actually, African hair (especially if treated like European hair) is more fragile than Caucasian hair. For this reason, we suggest using products made especially for our hair, whenever possible. Today, there is a wide range of excellent products made specifically for the needs of African American or Textured hair.
The parts that make up your hair are:
Cuticle: Outer layer of the hair. It is made up of layers of scales which interlock with the cells of the hair's inner root sheath to firmly anchor it in the follicle. This is a thin and colorless layer. Black hairs cuticle layer can be twice the thickness of that of white hair.
Cortex: The middle layer. It is composed of cells which are tightly bound around one another. These bands provide the hair with elasticity and strength and are very receptive to chemicals. As a result, they can easily be influenced (or damaged) by dyes and relaxers.
Melanin: is contained in the cortex and is the substance that determines the color of our hair and skin. The more melanin, the darker the hair or skin.
Follicle: This is the name for hair before it emerges from the skin. Follicles are composed of many elements including carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. Healthy amounts of these elements can improve the hairs' condition and appearance once it emerges.
Sebaceous/Sudoniferous Glands: Attached to the hair follicle are the sebaceous (oil) and the sudoriferous (sweat) glands. The sebaceous glands open and close continuously to release a waxy sebum oil into the hair follicle and onto the scalp. The sudoriferous glands contain many small structures with porous openings leading to the skin. They produce substances which dry on the skin including salts, acids, water and bacteria. If not completely dissolved and effectively removed from the scalp, they can help cause severe itching and dandruff. Thus, the scalp problems some people experience in the early stages of locs.
How does a relaxer work?
Time for a really quick science lesson (keep reading, it will be really quick and painless, I promise). There is a scale called a pH scale. It ranges from 0-14. Water is right in the middle with a pH of 7 and is "neutral" (neither acidic or basic). Substances with higher pH are called alkali, caustic or basic. Solutions with lower pH are called acidic. The farther from the number 7 (either high or low), the more the solution will do in terms of burning or breaking chemical bonds. The pH scale is a logarithmic scale. What that means is a whole number difference is greater than you might think. A solution that is pH 8 is ten times more basic than a solution that is ph 7. One that is a pH 5 is 100 times more acidic than a pH7. That's as far as we need to go for our purposes. End of lesson. Relaxers, whether lye or no lye, have a very high pH (very near the top of the scale). In other words, they are caustic.
Relaxers work on the same principle as commercial products like Liquid Plumr® that you'd buy to remove hair from your sink or drain. Relaxers break the hair down. Relaxers work because they break the bonds that actually give strength to the hair. This causes the hair to straighten. Therefore, relaxed hair is, by definition, weaker than natural hair. Relaxers also deplete the hair of sebum (the oil your scalp secretes). Combine that with heat and you can really end up with a problem. That's why it is of the utmost importance to be careful when putting in relaxers and to give relaxed hair the best care possible.
Does this mean we are against relaxers? Absolutely not. If a quality relaxer is applied properly and the hair is maintained properly, your hair can definitely be healthy. However, your hair will be weaker than if it were natural and will be more prone to problems. These problems are not insurmountable as long as you are aware of how to take care of your hair.
What are the hair care basics?
You should picture your hair as a collection of fine fibers. You should treat it as gently as you would a fine washable silk blouse. The better you treat your hair, the easier it will be to grow and the better it will look. African hair will tend to be dryer and more prone to breakage because the structure makes it more difficult for the oils to work their way from the scalp to the ends of the hair. If you relax your hair, you've weakened the hair and reduced the ability for the scalp to naturally oil it. The points where the hair curls and twists are also points where the hair tends to break. The more of these points (as in African hair), the more the hair is prone to breakage. Also, because our hair is kinky, it tends to tangle more and pulling these tangles out can cause breakage.
Either section the hair and plait it, tie it back or wrap it up using a scarf (we sell a mesh one specifically for this) before going to bed, this will reduce the number of tangles you have to comb out the next morning, reducing the chances of breaking your hair. We have a fairly large selection of things to wear while you're sleeping. Sleep caps
Sleep with a satin scarf or sleep cap on your your head or with a satin pillow case. This helps avoid split ends caused by the rubbing of your hair against a "rough" cotton pillow case.
Wash your hair no more often than every week to week and a half. More than that can dry it out.
Comb your hair out while you're conditioning it to remove the tangles while it's wet and relatively slick.
Oil your scalp on a regular basis with a good natural oil like shea butter. A daily moisturizer is not a bad idea.
Do a deep conditioner or hot oil treatment once a month.
Massage your scalp on a regular basis to promote circulation and oil production.
Avoid overuse of products with mineral oil or petroleum. They tend to block the pores and are not readily absorbed. If your mother used Vaseline® on your hair, stop.
If you exercise and sweat, rinse the salt out of your hair even if you don't wash it. Condition it afterwards with a daily leave-in conditioner.
Always use a leave-in conditioner after washing your hair.
Put as little heat as possible on your hair. Heat, especially combined with perms is very damaging to hair.
Avoid alcohol based products unless you have a need for a water-free shampoo to cleanse your scalp (for example while you're waiting for your locks to lock).
Remember that water (moisture) is your friend and get plenty- inside and out. If you used to press your hair or blow it out and learned to fear water on your hair because it would draw up, you need to get over this. Spritzing a little water on your hair every day is a good idea. Get a spray bottle and just spray it just a little.
Eat a proper diet. Vitamins and protein are essential for proper hair growth.
Find a style that works with your natural hair type and growth pattern. The less you work against your hair, the less stressed it will be.
Do not relax your hair until it is bone straight. This is just asking for trouble. Why relax your hair until it has absolutely no body or curl and then put heat on it to try to get that curl back?
Some tools you should have in your kit:
A good shampoo: They will be more expensive. But, they'll use more gentle cleansers and be more concentrated. You may find they save you money in the long run. And, your hair will definitely show the difference. We offer several.
A good acidifier (a conditioner with a low pH): Acidifying the hair adds shine and detangles. ebene Naturals' Conditioning Herbal Vinegar Rinse is perfect for this purpose.
A good hot oil treatment or deep conditioner: We highly recommend the Saniyyah...Naturally Lemongrass Hot Oil Treatment. It is an all natural based shea butter treatment. Apply the conditioner or hot oil treatment to the hair and scalp, cover with a plastic cap and sit under a dryer for 15-20 minutes. Alternatively, you can wrap your head in a towel. Then wash the hair thoroughly. This is very important for for dry brittle hair.
A good leave in conditioner or daily moisturizer: This is what you'll put on your hair after you've thoroughly cleaned it to continue to provide oil and moisture.
A comb for your hair type. Don't try to drag one of those skinny toothed combs through your natural kinky or curly hair. You'll just end up pulling it out and breaking it off.
A good boar bristle brush (use sparingly though)
A spray bottle to mist your hair
A scarf, cap, or wrap to wear on your head at night- or a satin pillow case (well, two)
Which oils should I use (and avoid)?
Oils, pomades, daily moisturizers, leave-in conditioner and creams will make the hair feel more soft and flexible. They are particularly important to be added to permed hair which has been stripped of some of its ability to oil itself. Mineral oil and petroleum use should be minimized or avoided. These products can tend to clog the pores, are not easily absorbed into the hair and attract dust. If you use products with these oils, try to use the ones that have the least amount. Generally, the further down the ingredient list, the less there will be in a product. So, try to use products where these are listed near the end.
Some natural oils to try are shea butter, jojoba oil, olive oil, and sunflower oil. We have a great selection of oils, pomades and moisturizers for every hair type and style.
Oils are best applied to wet hair to help hold in the moisture already there. Creams or leave-in conditioners can be used on days when you don't wash or wet your hair. The type of oil or cream you use in your hair is going to depend on your hair type and may take a little it of experimenting to find what works best for you. Also, the time of year and your hair's exposure to the elements will vary your routine.
How often should I wash my hair?
This will depend on your hair type and how prone your hair is to drying or becoming oily. As we said earlier, not all African Americans have the same type of hair. Generally speaking, our hair tends to be dry and shampooing too often will worsen that. Rinsing your hair with plain water every day and washing once every week to ten days works for most of us. Bi-racial people may want to wash their hair more often as it may tend to be more oily. BTW, when you dry your hair, do not rub it. Rubbing your hair can cause breakage. Blot it with a towel.
How do I handle permed hair?
First of all, make sure you have a good stylist. If you do apply your perm at home (which we do not encourage), be sure you follow the directions religiously. Make sure you apply touch ups only to new growth. Do not overlap the the perm on to the already permed hair. Follow the general directions for hair care above.
Now...
Dry your hair slowly and with as little heat as possible. I try to allow a couple of hours to wash my hair. I wash it and towel blot it. I apply a hair and scalp oil. Then, I walk around the house for a couple of hours and let it air dry as much as possible. Finally, I blow it dry the rest of the way and begin my conditioning and styling routine.
Wet your hair as much as possible (at least twice a week). Spritz it with water daily or rinse it in the shower every day or two.
Use a leave-in conditioner and/or moisturizing pomade. Again, this is especially important for relaxed hair as you've stripped the hair of some of its ability to oil itself and its protection against moisture loss.
Have your hair trimmed on a regular basis (whenever you have a perm applied). If your ends split, this split can travel along the hair shaft causing damage to the hair further up. Don't hang on to damaged hair for the sake of its length. If your hair has been damaged by a bad perm or general abuse, trim it back and let the healthy hair grow out to make up for it. Keeping the damaged hair around can actually begin to damage the healthy hair.
Touch up frequency will vary depending on your hair type and how fast it grows. I need to go pretty often. Two to three months is fairly normal.
How do I handle natural hair?
If you have super curly, kinky or (dare we say it?) nappy hair, your hair is best handled wet. You may find it easiest to comb it with a wide tooth comb while in the shower. Give up on that skinny little European comb and get one made for your hair. Try to avoid combing your hair while dry as the comb will tend to catch and break the hair. If you need to comb your hair while it's dry, be gentle. Try to spritz with some water or a cream first. You can use an unbraid product like Black Earth's Protective Mist Bodifier or Better Braids Unbraid. If you're unbraiding your hair and get to some tangles, pull them loose with your fingers before you go on combing. Other than this, follow the basic guidelines above.
How do I transition from relaxed to natural hair?
This one is a very frequently asked question. We get calls and e-mails from people hoping we can tell them what they want to hear. The true answer is there is no really quick or easy way. To reiterate (in case you haven't read the other questions). A relaxer is permanent. It cannot be removed. There are no products that will remove a relaxer (other than scissors). If you want to just grow your hair out to a natural state, be prepared for breakage. Baka Beautiful's Natural-Laxer is a great product if you want to maintain your length while transitioning. We cannot guarantee there will be no breakage. But, the Natural-Laxer can definitely help minimize it. There are three good ways to transition:
Cut off the relaxed hair- depending on how much new growth and your preferences you have a few styling options. You can wear a TWA (tweeny weeny afro) or two strand twists pretty easily with almost any length hair. For other styling ideas, Ourhair.net or Hairweb.com
Braids and/or extensions- you can have your hair braided until it grows to a length where you feel comfortable cutting off the new growth and going with other styling options
SisterlocksTM- SisterLocks can be started with one and one half inches of new growth at the scalp. They are similar to dread locks but with a look more like micro braids or very small twists. They leave you with many styling options. For more information (including pictures) go to sisterlocks.com
Find a transition style- This great tip was given to us by one of our customers. "I just wanted to send you another hair styling option for those who don't know what to do while growing out a perm and going natural. I recently did this and when my roots began growing out, I would wet my hair and add oil to it, then braid it while it was wet (Black Earth's Crinkles & Curls Styling Lotion would be perfect for this). After it dried, my hair was left wavy and with lots of texture and this helped to blend the natural roots with the permed ends. It is important to keep your ends clipped regularly during this process so that your split ends do not continue up the hair shaft and damage the natural hair. I was able to wear my hair like this until I was comfortable with cutting all of my permed hair off and wearing my 'fro.".....
sillygurl18
New Member
You're welcome!!!! Thank U Spagirl!!!!!
For those on the forum that find hair care from India of an interest these posts might be for you.
As always, take that which is of use to you and discard the rest. Enjoy!
Conditioning your hair
Our hair suffers from the abuses rendered by the city environment-the air is polluted, the water we drink and wash our hair with is laden with chemicals. That's not all, the suffering is worsened by the harsh and strong hair-care with chemical cosmetics, emotional crisis, hormonal problems and adverse weather conditions. All these cause the problems of split ends, dryness or oiliness, limpness, or frizzy unmanageability. this is when a conditioner comes to your rescue.
A conditioner is a beauty preparation that improves the texture of the hair and makes them easily manageable. It comes in as many different kinds as there are hair problems and is applied mostly after shampoo.
Why we should condition our hair
Conditining is a very important aspect of the hair-care routine, almost all kinds of hair need conditioning to some extent or the other. It is carried out to rejuvenate our hair which is usually robbed of its vitality by the abuse it is exposed to.
Conditioning restores body and bounce to limp hair
There are two kinds of body-building conditioners-the ones you rinse out and the ones you leave in. Both work at adding bulk to the hair by leaving some material on the hair shaft. These materials include polymer fibers and protein.
Conditioning restores the acid mantle and removes snarls from the hair
The special cream rinse conditioners are designed to untangle the frizz in the hair. Many also add the welcome beauty benefit of high gloss to the locks. The cream rinse coats the hair to help minimise the stress on the hair from brushing, combing, setting and deeps breakage and split ends under control. Cream rinses do not add body but only soften the hair.
Conditioning restores the damaged hair into full-bodied hair
We use deep conditioners to help restore the dry, damaged hair, plus hair that is brittle excessively and broken in any way. The deep conditioners contain large amounts of protein. In order that these proteins are absorbed, the deep conditioner should be applied for a longer time. The protein works by repairing hair damage at the area that is badly in need of help.
Conditioning helps restore the loss of moisture in hair
Conditioners also help in reducing friction and adding combability to hair. In addition, they help in removing dryness and moisturising it.
Home-made Cosmetic Care
These are effective and simple-to-make conditioners. These are not as harsh as the chemical conditioners, and are pure and resultful.
The All-purpose Conditioner Rinse
Mix the following to prepare the magic rinse:
1 Teaspoon of castor oil.
1 Teaspoon of Amla or Brahmi oil.
1 Teaspoon of Malt Vinegar.
1 Teaspoon of Glycerine.
1 Teaspoon of Shampoo.
The castor oil gives body to hair; the herbal oil acts like a hair tonic; vinegar restores the acid mantle; glycerine moisturises the hair and shampoo is the medium that blends the ingredients. Before washing the hair, apply this mixture to the hair gently and leave it on for about twenty minutes. Shampoo it out with clear water and feel the marvellous change in your hair texture.
Conditioner for Shine and Sheen
Grate few onions and some cabbage together and leave in copper vessel overnight. In the morning, add few drops of eau-de cologne to remove the onion smell. Add few drops of herbal oil like Amla or Brahmi and then apply. Shampoo after 20 minutes. Your hair will gain a superb gloss and colour. You may follow this routine once a week.
Henna Conditioners
For oily hair- Mix Henna with 2 tablespoons of yogurt and a pinch of sugar to a light paste. Add a bit of water if the paste is thick. Apply on hair and leave it on for 20 minutes. Rinse it out with clear water.
For dry hair- Mix Henna in a tablespoon of oil and enough warm milk to make a paste. Apply and leave on for 20 minutes. Rinse it out later.
The Henna conditioners give color, sheen and body to the hair.
Hair-setting Conditioner
Mix one teaspoon of gelatin in a mug of water. Rinse your hair with it. Finger-dry your hair and set them as you desire.
As always, take that which is of use to you and discard the rest. Enjoy!
Conditioning your hair
Our hair suffers from the abuses rendered by the city environment-the air is polluted, the water we drink and wash our hair with is laden with chemicals. That's not all, the suffering is worsened by the harsh and strong hair-care with chemical cosmetics, emotional crisis, hormonal problems and adverse weather conditions. All these cause the problems of split ends, dryness or oiliness, limpness, or frizzy unmanageability. this is when a conditioner comes to your rescue.
A conditioner is a beauty preparation that improves the texture of the hair and makes them easily manageable. It comes in as many different kinds as there are hair problems and is applied mostly after shampoo.
Why we should condition our hair
Conditining is a very important aspect of the hair-care routine, almost all kinds of hair need conditioning to some extent or the other. It is carried out to rejuvenate our hair which is usually robbed of its vitality by the abuse it is exposed to.
Conditioning restores body and bounce to limp hair
There are two kinds of body-building conditioners-the ones you rinse out and the ones you leave in. Both work at adding bulk to the hair by leaving some material on the hair shaft. These materials include polymer fibers and protein.
Conditioning restores the acid mantle and removes snarls from the hair
The special cream rinse conditioners are designed to untangle the frizz in the hair. Many also add the welcome beauty benefit of high gloss to the locks. The cream rinse coats the hair to help minimise the stress on the hair from brushing, combing, setting and deeps breakage and split ends under control. Cream rinses do not add body but only soften the hair.
Conditioning restores the damaged hair into full-bodied hair
We use deep conditioners to help restore the dry, damaged hair, plus hair that is brittle excessively and broken in any way. The deep conditioners contain large amounts of protein. In order that these proteins are absorbed, the deep conditioner should be applied for a longer time. The protein works by repairing hair damage at the area that is badly in need of help.
Conditioning helps restore the loss of moisture in hair
Conditioners also help in reducing friction and adding combability to hair. In addition, they help in removing dryness and moisturising it.
Home-made Cosmetic Care
These are effective and simple-to-make conditioners. These are not as harsh as the chemical conditioners, and are pure and resultful.
The All-purpose Conditioner Rinse
Mix the following to prepare the magic rinse:
1 Teaspoon of castor oil.
1 Teaspoon of Amla or Brahmi oil.
1 Teaspoon of Malt Vinegar.
1 Teaspoon of Glycerine.
1 Teaspoon of Shampoo.
The castor oil gives body to hair; the herbal oil acts like a hair tonic; vinegar restores the acid mantle; glycerine moisturises the hair and shampoo is the medium that blends the ingredients. Before washing the hair, apply this mixture to the hair gently and leave it on for about twenty minutes. Shampoo it out with clear water and feel the marvellous change in your hair texture.
Conditioner for Shine and Sheen
Grate few onions and some cabbage together and leave in copper vessel overnight. In the morning, add few drops of eau-de cologne to remove the onion smell. Add few drops of herbal oil like Amla or Brahmi and then apply. Shampoo after 20 minutes. Your hair will gain a superb gloss and colour. You may follow this routine once a week.
Henna Conditioners
For oily hair- Mix Henna with 2 tablespoons of yogurt and a pinch of sugar to a light paste. Add a bit of water if the paste is thick. Apply on hair and leave it on for 20 minutes. Rinse it out with clear water.
For dry hair- Mix Henna in a tablespoon of oil and enough warm milk to make a paste. Apply and leave on for 20 minutes. Rinse it out later.
The Henna conditioners give color, sheen and body to the hair.
Hair-setting Conditioner
Mix one teaspoon of gelatin in a mug of water. Rinse your hair with it. Finger-dry your hair and set them as you desire.
Hair care from India continued
Care of Dry Hair
Dry hair tends to be thin and rough. It issusceptible to tangles, damage, breakage and split ends.
The primary aim is to replenish the oil and the moisture in the hair. That is why the emphasis is on the conditioning aspect of hair care. Strong cleansing routnes and dry toning exercises and massaging of the scalp promote dryness and flakiness of the scalp.
The use of strong-action shampoo is prohibited for dry hair. Often a generous oil application and massage is recommended before washing the hair. Frequent shampooing is harmful for dry hair.
For the moisture-dry hair, a moisturiser application is required.
The Home-made Cosmetic Care for Dry Hair
Below are given few natural recipes that are time-tested. For maximum result, use these regularly in place of chemical products.
The Gentle Cleanser
Beat an egg in a cup of skimmed milk. When the foam becomes consistent, rub it into the scalp. Leave it on for 5 minutes. Rinse the hair thoroughly with water. Carry out this routine twice a week.
Take a cup of coconut milk and add two tablespoons of gram flour or one teaspoon of shikakai. Apply on your scalp and hair and massage gently. Rinse it out after five minutes. Follow this atleast once a week.
The Protein Conditioner
Beat one tablespoon of castor oil, one tablespoon of glycerine, a teaspoon of cider vinegar and a teaspoon of protein, plus a tablespoon of mild herbal shampoo. Apply it on scalp and leave it on for 20 minutes. Rinse with clear water.
A Special Massage Oil/Toner
Buy a bottle of castor oil or coconut oil. Add a teaspoon of lavender essential oil in it. Heat a little and massage it gently in your scalp at night. Rinse or shampoo it out in the morning. Follow this routine atleast twice a week.
Other Tips
First assess whether your scalp and hair are moisture-dry or oil-dry.
Condition your hair as often as you wash it.
Never comb, brush or massage vigorously if the hair is extremely dry.
Care of Dry Hair
Dry hair tends to be thin and rough. It issusceptible to tangles, damage, breakage and split ends.
The primary aim is to replenish the oil and the moisture in the hair. That is why the emphasis is on the conditioning aspect of hair care. Strong cleansing routnes and dry toning exercises and massaging of the scalp promote dryness and flakiness of the scalp.
The use of strong-action shampoo is prohibited for dry hair. Often a generous oil application and massage is recommended before washing the hair. Frequent shampooing is harmful for dry hair.
For the moisture-dry hair, a moisturiser application is required.
The Home-made Cosmetic Care for Dry Hair
Below are given few natural recipes that are time-tested. For maximum result, use these regularly in place of chemical products.
The Gentle Cleanser
Beat an egg in a cup of skimmed milk. When the foam becomes consistent, rub it into the scalp. Leave it on for 5 minutes. Rinse the hair thoroughly with water. Carry out this routine twice a week.
Take a cup of coconut milk and add two tablespoons of gram flour or one teaspoon of shikakai. Apply on your scalp and hair and massage gently. Rinse it out after five minutes. Follow this atleast once a week.
The Protein Conditioner
Beat one tablespoon of castor oil, one tablespoon of glycerine, a teaspoon of cider vinegar and a teaspoon of protein, plus a tablespoon of mild herbal shampoo. Apply it on scalp and leave it on for 20 minutes. Rinse with clear water.
A Special Massage Oil/Toner
Buy a bottle of castor oil or coconut oil. Add a teaspoon of lavender essential oil in it. Heat a little and massage it gently in your scalp at night. Rinse or shampoo it out in the morning. Follow this routine atleast twice a week.
Other Tips
First assess whether your scalp and hair are moisture-dry or oil-dry.
Condition your hair as often as you wash it.
Never comb, brush or massage vigorously if the hair is extremely dry.
Hair care from India continued.
Dealing with Dandruff
Dandruff is the single most common problem that can occur on every body. To have a few white-flaked cells is normal for it is simply the sloughing off matured skin cells and waste material through the pores of the scalp. It is only when this becomes excessive that it has to be considered a problem. Well-looked after, clean, healthy hair with the proper acid balance does not have problem dandruff.
There are two forms of dandruff - oily and dry. The dry dandruff appears as loose white flakes, and the scalp itches a great deal. The oily dandruff is sticky and yellow in color, and the scalp with oily dandruff smells bad. The oily form is found most among adolescents and adults with an excessively oily skin and scalp.
What causes dandruff
The basic causes of dandruff are faulty diet, emotional tension and stress, hormonal distrubances, infection due to disease, injury to the scalp and unwise or excessive use of hair cosmetics and dry weather.
The reason why so many adolescents have dandruff is that this is the time when they secrete an excess of androgen hormones which cause sebum, the skin oil.
How to get rid of dandruff
The motto of hair-care is keep it clean. Wash your hair and scalp frequently - it could be every other day depending upon how stubborn your dandruff is. If your hair and scalp are oily, you should use herbal shampoo, since washing hair with frequent strong shampoo can harm your hair.
Massage and daily brushing is extremely helpful in treating dandruff. They invigorate the blood circulation to scalp, promote the traffic of oil effusion and dislodge the dead skin cells sticking to the scalp for easy exfoliation. If you have dry dandruff, use an oil to massage your scalp especially before washing your hair.
Lastly eat less animal fat, and more poly-unsaturated vegetable oils. Avoid nuts, chocolate, fried food, shellfish, iodized salt. Follow a diet high in greens, chicken, fish, milk and its products and food high in Vitamins A, E and B Complex.
Home-made Cosmetic Care
Dandruff is one problem which can be easily taken care of with some home-made treatments.
For Oily Dandruff
Vinegar Rinse
To a mug of water, mix two tablespoons of malt vinegar. After shampoo, rinse the hair with it. Towel-dry your hair. This is an excellent remedy to prevent oily dandruff.
A Dandruff Cleanser
Soak two spoonfuls of fenugreek(methi) seeds in water overnight. In the morning, make a paste of the seeds and apply on the head. Leave it on for half an hour. Then wash the hair with soapnut (reetha) or shikakai and water. You may use a herbal shampoo instead to wash your hair. Do this routine twice a week.
For Dry Dandruff
Oil Massage
For best results, massage your scalp with 1 teaspoon hot castor oil, 1 teaspoon coconut oil and 1 teaspoon sesame (til) oil. Leave it on for about half-an-hour and then shampoo it out. Follow this routine, twice a week, especially in winter.
Cleanser
Take about 5 tablespoons of yogurt and squeeze half a lime in it. Take two spoonsfull of green grams and powder them. Mix it in curd. Apply on scalp and leave it for ten minutes. Wash your hair with a creamy shampoo thoroughly. Follow this routine at least once a week.
If the dandruff does not clear up in time, you should take medical advice. It could be due to a fungal infection.
Another effective dandruff chaser - A combination of a tablespoon of eau-de-cologne and two aspirin tablets curshed.
Dealing with Dandruff
Dandruff is the single most common problem that can occur on every body. To have a few white-flaked cells is normal for it is simply the sloughing off matured skin cells and waste material through the pores of the scalp. It is only when this becomes excessive that it has to be considered a problem. Well-looked after, clean, healthy hair with the proper acid balance does not have problem dandruff.
There are two forms of dandruff - oily and dry. The dry dandruff appears as loose white flakes, and the scalp itches a great deal. The oily dandruff is sticky and yellow in color, and the scalp with oily dandruff smells bad. The oily form is found most among adolescents and adults with an excessively oily skin and scalp.
What causes dandruff
The basic causes of dandruff are faulty diet, emotional tension and stress, hormonal distrubances, infection due to disease, injury to the scalp and unwise or excessive use of hair cosmetics and dry weather.
The reason why so many adolescents have dandruff is that this is the time when they secrete an excess of androgen hormones which cause sebum, the skin oil.
How to get rid of dandruff
The motto of hair-care is keep it clean. Wash your hair and scalp frequently - it could be every other day depending upon how stubborn your dandruff is. If your hair and scalp are oily, you should use herbal shampoo, since washing hair with frequent strong shampoo can harm your hair.
Massage and daily brushing is extremely helpful in treating dandruff. They invigorate the blood circulation to scalp, promote the traffic of oil effusion and dislodge the dead skin cells sticking to the scalp for easy exfoliation. If you have dry dandruff, use an oil to massage your scalp especially before washing your hair.
Lastly eat less animal fat, and more poly-unsaturated vegetable oils. Avoid nuts, chocolate, fried food, shellfish, iodized salt. Follow a diet high in greens, chicken, fish, milk and its products and food high in Vitamins A, E and B Complex.
Home-made Cosmetic Care
Dandruff is one problem which can be easily taken care of with some home-made treatments.
For Oily Dandruff
Vinegar Rinse
To a mug of water, mix two tablespoons of malt vinegar. After shampoo, rinse the hair with it. Towel-dry your hair. This is an excellent remedy to prevent oily dandruff.
A Dandruff Cleanser
Soak two spoonfuls of fenugreek(methi) seeds in water overnight. In the morning, make a paste of the seeds and apply on the head. Leave it on for half an hour. Then wash the hair with soapnut (reetha) or shikakai and water. You may use a herbal shampoo instead to wash your hair. Do this routine twice a week.
For Dry Dandruff
Oil Massage
For best results, massage your scalp with 1 teaspoon hot castor oil, 1 teaspoon coconut oil and 1 teaspoon sesame (til) oil. Leave it on for about half-an-hour and then shampoo it out. Follow this routine, twice a week, especially in winter.
Cleanser
Take about 5 tablespoons of yogurt and squeeze half a lime in it. Take two spoonsfull of green grams and powder them. Mix it in curd. Apply on scalp and leave it for ten minutes. Wash your hair with a creamy shampoo thoroughly. Follow this routine at least once a week.
If the dandruff does not clear up in time, you should take medical advice. It could be due to a fungal infection.
Another effective dandruff chaser - A combination of a tablespoon of eau-de-cologne and two aspirin tablets curshed.
kitchen_tician
New Member
Thanks SpaGirl, 3 cheers for Spa Girl!
Hair care from India continued.
Dealing with Falling Hair
Hair, like human beings, has a life-cycle. Every hair that grows must fall out one day. New hair will grow at the same place, after some time.
There is a natural balance between the rate at which hair falls and the rate at which new hair grows. Any disturbance in this balance can result in an emotionally discomforting condition of either an excess fallout of hair or hairiness all over the body.
Now-a-days, excess loss of hair is very common. It happens for various reasons such as emotional and physical stress of city life, local scalp infection, adverse drug reaction, hormonal imbalances during teenage and pregnancy, etc.
Factors that determine hair loss
Over the past several years, dermatologists have made some interesting statistical findings that explain the pattern of hair loss. Curiously enough, the phenomenon of falling hair is provenly related to the rate of hair growth, length of the hair, age and even the color of hair.
It is normal to shed from 50 to 80 strands of hair a day. It is normal for each of those hair to be replaced by the hard-working follicles. On any given day, about 90% hair are in the growing stage. This period lasts for about 1000 days. 10% hair are in the resting stage which lasts for about 100 days before the follicles eventually grow out.
Interestingly, the fall-out occurs mostly in the morning. This fact remains unexplained.
The length of hair is an important factor in hair loss. The four-inch long hair, loses on an average 87 hairs a day; the 12-inch long hair loses about 26 hairs a day; and 20-inch plus long hair loses as little as 16 hairs a day on an average. The longer the hair, the less is the hair loss.
Hair grows on an average of 6 inches a year, and shortfall in the normal hair growth is accompanied with a hair loss too. Apart from the day-to-day loss, we shed more than usual hair during six periods of our life; from birth to age three; at ten, at twenty-two, around the age of twenty-six, at thirty-six and around fifty-four. This happens due to hormonal changes that occur in our bodies during these periods of our lives.
The maximum hair growth on women occurs between the age of fifteen to thirty.
Causes for excess fall of hair
Technically, an unnatural excess fall out of hair, temporary or permanent, is called Alopecia and is caused for following reasons:
Heriditary
The kind of hair we have whether it is thick, thin, fine, sparse, straight or curly - depends a great deal on the genes inherited. The problems concerning hair loss are also passed on from the parents to the offspring. Diabetes and thyroid disorders are two real threats to healthy hair. Falling hair are also often directly inherited.
Trauma
The result of physical stress on the hair is called Traction Alopecia. This can be caused by tying up the hair in too tight chignon style, ponytails, or pigtails. The prolonged and continuing pull-like pressure on the hair can result in spot baldness.
Spot baldness is also caused due to trauma or sudden shock experienced. A severe blow to the head may lead to spot baldness where the blow is received.
Local Scalp Infection
Bacterial, viral or fungal infections can cause spot fall out of hair. It can, however, be treated with medicated shampoos and lotions.
Diseases
Internal disorders and infections which cause high fever such as flu, pneumonia and typhoid are often accompanied by excessive hair loss.
Chemicals or Drugs
Antibiotics and a durg called Cortizone administered sometimes in treating acne and scars lead to hair loss. Chemical therapies given in serious diseases such as cancer, cause the excess fall out of hair.
Emotional or Environmental Stress
People unable to cope with pressures of life, all the time worrying about the problems at work place or home, having most of their emotional conflicts unresolved, are easy victims of excess hair loss.
With the tension in their minds, the muscles in the scalp and neck constrict. The blood circulation is thereby impeded, resulting in the suffocation of the hair follicles.
To prevent the consequential excess hair loss, massage to loosen up the scalp is an excellent remedy.
Hormonal Imbalances and Hair Loss
Hormonal imbalances are the primary cause of most serious hair loss conditions. Pregnancy, contraception with birth control pills and menopause are the common conditions that induce hormonal changes.
Pregnancy
Generally, the hair condition improves during pregnancy as the endocrine glands function at their peak.
The hair loss occurs only after the birth of the baby. This happens due to irregularity in the functioning of thyroid glands. It can be attributed to the change in the life style - the new unaccustomed life with the baby.
The normal hair loss after delivery happens four months after birth and continues for about two months.
Birth Control Pills
If a woman in perfect health with normal weight, having regular periods, eating sensibly and physically active, uses the pill for contraceptive reasons, she can expect the problem of hair loss. Taking the pill can alter her perfect hormonal balance.
In contrast if, however, a woman who is already suffering from hormonal imbalance takes the pill, it can restore the balance and promote hair growth.
Menopause
One of the problems of menopause is that the production of the female hormone estrogen slows down. This results in weak, dry hair and an excess fall out in one out of two women.
How to Prevent Excess Fall Out of Hair
Hair in normal and healthy conditions does not fall out at an alarming rate. The excess fall out occurs mostly when the hair condition is extremely dry, rough and damaged.
Conditioning and nourishing of hair are the top priorities to prevent excess hair loss. Cream rinses help the dry and rough hair to regain its flexibility. Generous application of moisturisers and oil preparations replenish the moisture and oil in the dry hair.
Massage is a very important element of the scalp treatment to control excess fall out of hair. It invigorates the blood circulation, giving hair an increased supply of nutrition and oxygen for healthy growth. Massage also stimulates the dormant hair follicles to grow fresh hair.
The Home-made Cosmetic Care
Try these age-old treatments.
The Hair Rejuvenating Ointment
Powder 10 gms each of lime seeds and black pepper. Make a fine paste in plain water or if possible in ginger juice. Apply this paste on the head every night. Leave it on for at least a couple of hours. Then rinse it out. Massage your scalp with your finger tips for five minutes while applying the paste.
(Note: Application of the above paste may irritate your scalp. If you have sensitive skin, reduce the quantity of the ingredients.)
The Magic Treatment for Spot Baldness
Make a paste with a few small sticks of Mulathi in milk cream. Add a little saffron and apply it on the bald patches at night. Rinse it out with clear water in the morning. If possible, mix some ground Dhatura seeds in the paste. It increases the potency of the treatment. Massage your bald scalp spot generously with your finger tips for five minutes while applying the ointment.
The Wonderful Oil Massage
Castor oil is excellent for hair re-growth. If combined with white iodine which is available at the chemist shop, it can produce the desired results.
Part your hair in small sections and apply the oil to the scalp with cotton. Massage it in with your finger tips. If you are able to get white iodine solution, use it similarly on every alternate day.
Squeeze the milk out of 1/2 a coconut, add the juice of half a lime and massage into the scalp. Leave on for 4 - 6 hours. Wash with a mild shampoo or crushed Hibiscus leaves mixed with a tablespoon of crushed fenugreek seeds and made into a paste.
Do's and Don'ts
In case of baldness due to fungal, viral or bacterial infections, consult a dermatalogist.
Use a soft brush with well-spaced bristles.
Sanitise your implements, i.e. brushes, combs, etc. atleast once a week. Take iron tablets in case you are anaemic.
Improve the protein content of your diet.
Take birth control pills with a prescription.
The most important aspect of any treatment is the correct diagnosis. Unless it is well determined by observing the physical characteristics and studying the other causes for hair loss, the treatments given may not work efficaciously. It is advisable to seek professional help in cases of severe hair loss.
Dealing with Falling Hair
Hair, like human beings, has a life-cycle. Every hair that grows must fall out one day. New hair will grow at the same place, after some time.
There is a natural balance between the rate at which hair falls and the rate at which new hair grows. Any disturbance in this balance can result in an emotionally discomforting condition of either an excess fallout of hair or hairiness all over the body.
Now-a-days, excess loss of hair is very common. It happens for various reasons such as emotional and physical stress of city life, local scalp infection, adverse drug reaction, hormonal imbalances during teenage and pregnancy, etc.
Factors that determine hair loss
Over the past several years, dermatologists have made some interesting statistical findings that explain the pattern of hair loss. Curiously enough, the phenomenon of falling hair is provenly related to the rate of hair growth, length of the hair, age and even the color of hair.
It is normal to shed from 50 to 80 strands of hair a day. It is normal for each of those hair to be replaced by the hard-working follicles. On any given day, about 90% hair are in the growing stage. This period lasts for about 1000 days. 10% hair are in the resting stage which lasts for about 100 days before the follicles eventually grow out.
Interestingly, the fall-out occurs mostly in the morning. This fact remains unexplained.
The length of hair is an important factor in hair loss. The four-inch long hair, loses on an average 87 hairs a day; the 12-inch long hair loses about 26 hairs a day; and 20-inch plus long hair loses as little as 16 hairs a day on an average. The longer the hair, the less is the hair loss.
Hair grows on an average of 6 inches a year, and shortfall in the normal hair growth is accompanied with a hair loss too. Apart from the day-to-day loss, we shed more than usual hair during six periods of our life; from birth to age three; at ten, at twenty-two, around the age of twenty-six, at thirty-six and around fifty-four. This happens due to hormonal changes that occur in our bodies during these periods of our lives.
The maximum hair growth on women occurs between the age of fifteen to thirty.
Causes for excess fall of hair
Technically, an unnatural excess fall out of hair, temporary or permanent, is called Alopecia and is caused for following reasons:
Heriditary
The kind of hair we have whether it is thick, thin, fine, sparse, straight or curly - depends a great deal on the genes inherited. The problems concerning hair loss are also passed on from the parents to the offspring. Diabetes and thyroid disorders are two real threats to healthy hair. Falling hair are also often directly inherited.
Trauma
The result of physical stress on the hair is called Traction Alopecia. This can be caused by tying up the hair in too tight chignon style, ponytails, or pigtails. The prolonged and continuing pull-like pressure on the hair can result in spot baldness.
Spot baldness is also caused due to trauma or sudden shock experienced. A severe blow to the head may lead to spot baldness where the blow is received.
Local Scalp Infection
Bacterial, viral or fungal infections can cause spot fall out of hair. It can, however, be treated with medicated shampoos and lotions.
Diseases
Internal disorders and infections which cause high fever such as flu, pneumonia and typhoid are often accompanied by excessive hair loss.
Chemicals or Drugs
Antibiotics and a durg called Cortizone administered sometimes in treating acne and scars lead to hair loss. Chemical therapies given in serious diseases such as cancer, cause the excess fall out of hair.
Emotional or Environmental Stress
People unable to cope with pressures of life, all the time worrying about the problems at work place or home, having most of their emotional conflicts unresolved, are easy victims of excess hair loss.
With the tension in their minds, the muscles in the scalp and neck constrict. The blood circulation is thereby impeded, resulting in the suffocation of the hair follicles.
To prevent the consequential excess hair loss, massage to loosen up the scalp is an excellent remedy.
Hormonal Imbalances and Hair Loss
Hormonal imbalances are the primary cause of most serious hair loss conditions. Pregnancy, contraception with birth control pills and menopause are the common conditions that induce hormonal changes.
Pregnancy
Generally, the hair condition improves during pregnancy as the endocrine glands function at their peak.
The hair loss occurs only after the birth of the baby. This happens due to irregularity in the functioning of thyroid glands. It can be attributed to the change in the life style - the new unaccustomed life with the baby.
The normal hair loss after delivery happens four months after birth and continues for about two months.
Birth Control Pills
If a woman in perfect health with normal weight, having regular periods, eating sensibly and physically active, uses the pill for contraceptive reasons, she can expect the problem of hair loss. Taking the pill can alter her perfect hormonal balance.
In contrast if, however, a woman who is already suffering from hormonal imbalance takes the pill, it can restore the balance and promote hair growth.
Menopause
One of the problems of menopause is that the production of the female hormone estrogen slows down. This results in weak, dry hair and an excess fall out in one out of two women.
How to Prevent Excess Fall Out of Hair
Hair in normal and healthy conditions does not fall out at an alarming rate. The excess fall out occurs mostly when the hair condition is extremely dry, rough and damaged.
Conditioning and nourishing of hair are the top priorities to prevent excess hair loss. Cream rinses help the dry and rough hair to regain its flexibility. Generous application of moisturisers and oil preparations replenish the moisture and oil in the dry hair.
Massage is a very important element of the scalp treatment to control excess fall out of hair. It invigorates the blood circulation, giving hair an increased supply of nutrition and oxygen for healthy growth. Massage also stimulates the dormant hair follicles to grow fresh hair.
The Home-made Cosmetic Care
Try these age-old treatments.
The Hair Rejuvenating Ointment
Powder 10 gms each of lime seeds and black pepper. Make a fine paste in plain water or if possible in ginger juice. Apply this paste on the head every night. Leave it on for at least a couple of hours. Then rinse it out. Massage your scalp with your finger tips for five minutes while applying the paste.
(Note: Application of the above paste may irritate your scalp. If you have sensitive skin, reduce the quantity of the ingredients.)
The Magic Treatment for Spot Baldness
Make a paste with a few small sticks of Mulathi in milk cream. Add a little saffron and apply it on the bald patches at night. Rinse it out with clear water in the morning. If possible, mix some ground Dhatura seeds in the paste. It increases the potency of the treatment. Massage your bald scalp spot generously with your finger tips for five minutes while applying the ointment.
The Wonderful Oil Massage
Castor oil is excellent for hair re-growth. If combined with white iodine which is available at the chemist shop, it can produce the desired results.
Part your hair in small sections and apply the oil to the scalp with cotton. Massage it in with your finger tips. If you are able to get white iodine solution, use it similarly on every alternate day.
Squeeze the milk out of 1/2 a coconut, add the juice of half a lime and massage into the scalp. Leave on for 4 - 6 hours. Wash with a mild shampoo or crushed Hibiscus leaves mixed with a tablespoon of crushed fenugreek seeds and made into a paste.
Do's and Don'ts
In case of baldness due to fungal, viral or bacterial infections, consult a dermatalogist.
Use a soft brush with well-spaced bristles.
Sanitise your implements, i.e. brushes, combs, etc. atleast once a week. Take iron tablets in case you are anaemic.
Improve the protein content of your diet.
Take birth control pills with a prescription.
The most important aspect of any treatment is the correct diagnosis. Unless it is well determined by observing the physical characteristics and studying the other causes for hair loss, the treatments given may not work efficaciously. It is advisable to seek professional help in cases of severe hair loss.
Oh what the heck, since the info is constructed so well.....last but not least hair care from India.
The structure of hair and its growth
Hair is made of strong elastic strands of protein called keratin and in chemical terms is composed of oxygen, iron, nitrogen, hydrogen, sulphur, carbon and phosphorus. The exact proportions of these chemical elements vary with sex, age, type and color of hair.
The sources of hair are very small tiny pockets in our skin and scalp known as follicles. These follicles are not evenly spread on the scalp but ae found together in groups of two to five each. Every follicle follows a life cycle of its own, producing six inches of hair a year, for as long as four years, before it falls out, then starts all over again after a short period.
The basal tip of the hair in the scalp is known as papilla, which is a small out-growth of the skin, shaped like a doorknob and lying at the tip of the follicle. The papilla contains the blood vessels to supply nourishment to the hair.
During the active period, the new cell growth pushes the older part of the hair away from the papilla until the hair falls out. It is the pattern of cell growth at the papilla which determines whether hair grow straight, wavy or curly.
The growth pattern usually becomes uneven during the adolescence when the hair growth is at its peak. It declines as we grow older. The cell growth pattern can change otherwise also due to illness, drugs, pregnancy, etc.
Though hair strands look as singular fibres, each hair is constructed in three different layers: the cuticle, thecortex and the medulla.
The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair which provides protection to the inner cortex layer. It is made up of flattened, hard, horny cells. When the cuticle breaks and dislodges at the end of the hair, the result is split ends. Improper care and frequent use of harsh chemicals on hair damage the cuticle.
The cortex is the second layer. The qualitative properties of strength, elasticity, pliability, direction and growth pattern, width and the texture of hair depend on the composition of the cortex. The cortex is composed of fibres twisted together like a rope.
It is the cortex which gives the hair its color. The presence of the four natural pigments black, brown, yellow and red are logged in the cortex in varying proportions, and the air spaces in the cortex determine the color and shade of hair. The excess black and deep brown pigment is what gives oriental women the dark hair they possess.
Lastly, the medulla is the unimportant innermost layer which is composed of soft keratin. Medulla is often not present in some hair. Hair that lacks medulla is no worse than hair that has medulla.
The Characterstics of Healthy Hair
It may surprise you, but till date, no cosmetologist or trichologist has been able to comprehensively and conclusively describe all the characterstics of healthy hair. Some of the most common characterstics of healthy hair quoted are:
Thick and dense.
Fine and silky, which means not too oily or rough.
Lustre-filled, having a shine and gloss.
Pliable, capable of setting and styling.
Full-bodied and not limp or lank.
Regular care of hair
Taking care of hair is in fact much the same as taking care of skin. An effective hair-care discipline involves cleansing, toning and conditioning routines carried out with regularity.
Another important aspect of effective care is the use of proper hair-care products. Different types of hair need different hair-care products. The use of wrong products is detrimental to the hair.
Cleansing is the foremost routine in daily hair care. The purpose of cleansing is to wash away excess oil on hair and scalp and clear the hair follicles off the debris of unexfoliated dead cells. Proper cleansing encourages healthy hair growth.
After cleansing, the scalp and hair need the toning exercise. The toning of scalp and hair is achieved by gently massaging the head. This helps in stimulating and invigorating the blood circulation reqiuired for the healthy groth of hair.
The most important part of hair-care is conditioning. It is a restorative routine. If the hair is excessively stripped of moisture or oil due to harsh cleansing, sun or application of harsh chemicals such as perm lotions, etc., the conditioning routine aims at restoring the correcting the imbalance. The kind of conditioning required depends entirely on the physical condition of the hair.
Factors Affecting Hair
The condition of hair is directly linked to the physiological well-being of our bodies. Apart from improper hair-care, there are several other factors that can be detrimental to hair. Here is a list of those factors:
Heriditary/genes also determine the hair color and density.
Chemical and drug reactions.
Hormonal changes.
Emotional stress, trauma.
These factors, by and large, influence the hair condition and its proper growth.
Types of hair and scalp conditions
Oily Hair
When the oil glands(Sebaceous glands) in the scalp secrete excess oil, it travels down the hair shaft, causing excessive oiliness on the scalp and hair. The oily hair appears lank, dark and coarse.
Dry Hair
In contrast to the oily hair condition, dry hair is a result of the lack of sebum and oil on the hair causing it to dry out at cellular level. Flakiness of the scalp and dandruff are a direct result of dryness. The hair looks limp, becomes less elastic and is more susceptible to breakage and damage.
Normal Hair
It is healthy, silky hair without over-dry ends or over-oily roots. It is the easiest to cope and care for.
All the above hair care tips of India are from "Flavor of India.com".
The structure of hair and its growth
Hair is made of strong elastic strands of protein called keratin and in chemical terms is composed of oxygen, iron, nitrogen, hydrogen, sulphur, carbon and phosphorus. The exact proportions of these chemical elements vary with sex, age, type and color of hair.
The sources of hair are very small tiny pockets in our skin and scalp known as follicles. These follicles are not evenly spread on the scalp but ae found together in groups of two to five each. Every follicle follows a life cycle of its own, producing six inches of hair a year, for as long as four years, before it falls out, then starts all over again after a short period.
The basal tip of the hair in the scalp is known as papilla, which is a small out-growth of the skin, shaped like a doorknob and lying at the tip of the follicle. The papilla contains the blood vessels to supply nourishment to the hair.
During the active period, the new cell growth pushes the older part of the hair away from the papilla until the hair falls out. It is the pattern of cell growth at the papilla which determines whether hair grow straight, wavy or curly.
The growth pattern usually becomes uneven during the adolescence when the hair growth is at its peak. It declines as we grow older. The cell growth pattern can change otherwise also due to illness, drugs, pregnancy, etc.
Though hair strands look as singular fibres, each hair is constructed in three different layers: the cuticle, thecortex and the medulla.
The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair which provides protection to the inner cortex layer. It is made up of flattened, hard, horny cells. When the cuticle breaks and dislodges at the end of the hair, the result is split ends. Improper care and frequent use of harsh chemicals on hair damage the cuticle.
The cortex is the second layer. The qualitative properties of strength, elasticity, pliability, direction and growth pattern, width and the texture of hair depend on the composition of the cortex. The cortex is composed of fibres twisted together like a rope.
It is the cortex which gives the hair its color. The presence of the four natural pigments black, brown, yellow and red are logged in the cortex in varying proportions, and the air spaces in the cortex determine the color and shade of hair. The excess black and deep brown pigment is what gives oriental women the dark hair they possess.
Lastly, the medulla is the unimportant innermost layer which is composed of soft keratin. Medulla is often not present in some hair. Hair that lacks medulla is no worse than hair that has medulla.
The Characterstics of Healthy Hair
It may surprise you, but till date, no cosmetologist or trichologist has been able to comprehensively and conclusively describe all the characterstics of healthy hair. Some of the most common characterstics of healthy hair quoted are:
Thick and dense.
Fine and silky, which means not too oily or rough.
Lustre-filled, having a shine and gloss.
Pliable, capable of setting and styling.
Full-bodied and not limp or lank.
Regular care of hair
Taking care of hair is in fact much the same as taking care of skin. An effective hair-care discipline involves cleansing, toning and conditioning routines carried out with regularity.
Another important aspect of effective care is the use of proper hair-care products. Different types of hair need different hair-care products. The use of wrong products is detrimental to the hair.
Cleansing is the foremost routine in daily hair care. The purpose of cleansing is to wash away excess oil on hair and scalp and clear the hair follicles off the debris of unexfoliated dead cells. Proper cleansing encourages healthy hair growth.
After cleansing, the scalp and hair need the toning exercise. The toning of scalp and hair is achieved by gently massaging the head. This helps in stimulating and invigorating the blood circulation reqiuired for the healthy groth of hair.
The most important part of hair-care is conditioning. It is a restorative routine. If the hair is excessively stripped of moisture or oil due to harsh cleansing, sun or application of harsh chemicals such as perm lotions, etc., the conditioning routine aims at restoring the correcting the imbalance. The kind of conditioning required depends entirely on the physical condition of the hair.
Factors Affecting Hair
The condition of hair is directly linked to the physiological well-being of our bodies. Apart from improper hair-care, there are several other factors that can be detrimental to hair. Here is a list of those factors:
Heriditary/genes also determine the hair color and density.
Chemical and drug reactions.
Hormonal changes.
Emotional stress, trauma.
These factors, by and large, influence the hair condition and its proper growth.
Types of hair and scalp conditions
Oily Hair
When the oil glands(Sebaceous glands) in the scalp secrete excess oil, it travels down the hair shaft, causing excessive oiliness on the scalp and hair. The oily hair appears lank, dark and coarse.
Dry Hair
In contrast to the oily hair condition, dry hair is a result of the lack of sebum and oil on the hair causing it to dry out at cellular level. Flakiness of the scalp and dandruff are a direct result of dryness. The hair looks limp, becomes less elastic and is more susceptible to breakage and damage.
Normal Hair
It is healthy, silky hair without over-dry ends or over-oily roots. It is the easiest to cope and care for.
All the above hair care tips of India are from "Flavor of India.com".
[ QUOTE ]
Spagirl said:
Here is a tip from Curl.biz web site. The tips are said to be curl hair care tips for the multi ethnic woman. Areas covered are shampooing, conditioning and curl maintenance tips. Just when you think you've read all there is to read curl.biz offers you a little something extra.
[/ QUOTE ]
The above link doesn't work anymore.
Here is the info from the link:
Tips for curly hair care
Naturally curly hair needs moisture (not grease or drying alcohol) to restore its natural luster, beauty, and healthy state. Unfortunately, most ethnic products contain cheap oils that coat and weigh down the hair. Non-ethnic products contain drying ingredients that rob the hair it of its natural sheen. You won't find any cheap oils or drying ingredients in our products...just quality ingredients, such as whole oats, amino silk acids (protein), wheat germ, jojoba, avocado and coconut oil, as well as a new, patented ingredient, all guaranteed to put the bounce back into your curl.
Shampoo
Some curly girls shampoo, and others choose to skip shampooing and opt for conditioning rinses only. Shampooing weekly isn't a necessity, curly girls can use a conditioner to effectively rinse away excess dirt and oil. However, it is recommended that you shampoo at least once a month, 2-3x is optimal. Avoid using shampoos that strip your hair of essential elements, leaving your hair feeling dry and unmanageable.
How to Properly Shampoo the Hair: Rinse hair and scalp using warm water (never hot water, as it can dry out the hair and scalp). Apply a small amount of shampoo into the palm of your hand, rub together and evenly coat the scalp. Massage gently with your fingertips. Rinse thoroughly. Repeat only if your scalp is oily or if you have a build up of products on the hair.
Additional Shampooing Tips:
Before shampooing hair, comb a coat of conditioner evenly throughout your tresses. Rinse well. This extra step will add extra conditioning before you shampoo.
Curly hair becomes too dry and frizzy if shampooed too often, as this robs your hair and scalp of its natural oils. Always use a moisturizing shampoo to help hydrate your scalp.
Tip for getting through your "shampoo-less" days. Rinse hair with warm water, apply conditioner, and rinse well. This will give you a clean start and provide added conditioning and moisture without stripping away protective oils.
Conditioner
Conditioning your hair is one of the most important steps in your hair care regime. Curly hair is dry by nature and requires moisture. Continue to pump moisture, moisture, moisture back into your locs.
How to Properly Condition the Hair: After completely rinsing shampoo out of your hair, apply a generous amount of conditioner into the palm of your hands. Start at the middle of your hair (not at the roots) and work your way down to the ends. Comb conditioner completely through the hair. Apply an additional helping of conditioner to the hair’s ends, as they are the most dry and porous. Allow the conditioner to penetrate. Rinse well.
Additional Conditioning Tips:
Add an extra helping of your favorite natural oil (sweet almond, coconut, or jojoba) to your conditioner. Mix well. Apply a nice coat of your conditioner concoction to your hair, comb through. Cover with plastic cap. Allow conditioner to penetrate during your shower time. Rinse. Thicker hair types: Do not rinse out completely. Leave a slight film of conditioner in your hair.
Deep condition your hair at least once a month. Comb a coat of conditioner through your locks. Cover with plastic cap. Sit under the dryer for 15-25 minutes. Rinse. Deep conditioning is recommended once a week.
Use a daily leave in treatment (e.g. Curls and Curly Q’s moisturizer) to protect the hair from environmental elements. This helps prevent the hair from drying out from season to season.
Curl Maintenance
Maintaining luscious curls is no easy task. Varying climates, temperatures, activities, stress levels, etc. can all affect the appearance of your hair. Let’s face it…curly hair is temperamental. Over conditioning and product build up can weigh down the hair, rendering it lifeless. What’s the key? A regular hair care regime (including diet, exercise, and vitamins), proper upkeep, and the right products.
Curl Maintenance Tips:
Nothing is more unattractive then sparse, stringy ends…especially on curly heads. Regular trims should be a part of your hair care regime. Curly hair should be trimmed at least every 3 months. Don’t just trust anyone with your gorgeous locks. Ensure that your stylist is familiar with styling and cutting curly hair.
Heat things up a bit! Give yourself a hot oil treatment once a month…especially during the cold weather. Harsh temperatures contribute to dry, brittle hair. Counter it with a little heat. The heat opens up the inner cortex and penetrates the hair shaft. The conditioning oil strengthens the hair shaft and lubricates dry, itchy scalps. When you rinse out the oil, the shaft closes and locks in moisture. A must for curly hair!
Give your hair a break! Refresh your dry, unmanageable curls with a touch of essential oils. Avocado, jojoba, coconut, and olive oil are great moisturizers. Shampoo and condition hair. Apply oil of your choice. Gently comb oils through hair. Fine hair - use less oil, to your liking. Medium/coarse hair - use more oil, to your liking. Wear hair in protective style (e.g. bun) for 24 hours. You will find that your curls are soft, revived, and more manageable your next shampoo!
CAUTION: Avoid products that contain mineral and/or petrolatum oil as an ingredient. Do not use products with these ingredients for your hair or scalp. Both of these synthetic oils coat and suffocate the hair shaft blocking moisture out. Further, they clog pores in your scalp and can retard hair growth. Read your labels. Remember, the ingredients are listed in order of volume. <font color="blue"> Spagirl note: Ingredient order in most cases is done per the volume but it some cases it's posted alphabetically. As always, take info that works for you and discard the rest. </font>
Spagirl said:
Here is a tip from Curl.biz web site. The tips are said to be curl hair care tips for the multi ethnic woman. Areas covered are shampooing, conditioning and curl maintenance tips. Just when you think you've read all there is to read curl.biz offers you a little something extra.
[/ QUOTE ]
The above link doesn't work anymore.
Tips for curly hair care
Naturally curly hair needs moisture (not grease or drying alcohol) to restore its natural luster, beauty, and healthy state. Unfortunately, most ethnic products contain cheap oils that coat and weigh down the hair. Non-ethnic products contain drying ingredients that rob the hair it of its natural sheen. You won't find any cheap oils or drying ingredients in our products...just quality ingredients, such as whole oats, amino silk acids (protein), wheat germ, jojoba, avocado and coconut oil, as well as a new, patented ingredient, all guaranteed to put the bounce back into your curl.
Shampoo
Some curly girls shampoo, and others choose to skip shampooing and opt for conditioning rinses only. Shampooing weekly isn't a necessity, curly girls can use a conditioner to effectively rinse away excess dirt and oil. However, it is recommended that you shampoo at least once a month, 2-3x is optimal. Avoid using shampoos that strip your hair of essential elements, leaving your hair feeling dry and unmanageable.
How to Properly Shampoo the Hair: Rinse hair and scalp using warm water (never hot water, as it can dry out the hair and scalp). Apply a small amount of shampoo into the palm of your hand, rub together and evenly coat the scalp. Massage gently with your fingertips. Rinse thoroughly. Repeat only if your scalp is oily or if you have a build up of products on the hair.
Additional Shampooing Tips:
Before shampooing hair, comb a coat of conditioner evenly throughout your tresses. Rinse well. This extra step will add extra conditioning before you shampoo.
Curly hair becomes too dry and frizzy if shampooed too often, as this robs your hair and scalp of its natural oils. Always use a moisturizing shampoo to help hydrate your scalp.
Tip for getting through your "shampoo-less" days. Rinse hair with warm water, apply conditioner, and rinse well. This will give you a clean start and provide added conditioning and moisture without stripping away protective oils.
Conditioner
Conditioning your hair is one of the most important steps in your hair care regime. Curly hair is dry by nature and requires moisture. Continue to pump moisture, moisture, moisture back into your locs.
How to Properly Condition the Hair: After completely rinsing shampoo out of your hair, apply a generous amount of conditioner into the palm of your hands. Start at the middle of your hair (not at the roots) and work your way down to the ends. Comb conditioner completely through the hair. Apply an additional helping of conditioner to the hair’s ends, as they are the most dry and porous. Allow the conditioner to penetrate. Rinse well.
Additional Conditioning Tips:
Add an extra helping of your favorite natural oil (sweet almond, coconut, or jojoba) to your conditioner. Mix well. Apply a nice coat of your conditioner concoction to your hair, comb through. Cover with plastic cap. Allow conditioner to penetrate during your shower time. Rinse. Thicker hair types: Do not rinse out completely. Leave a slight film of conditioner in your hair.
Deep condition your hair at least once a month. Comb a coat of conditioner through your locks. Cover with plastic cap. Sit under the dryer for 15-25 minutes. Rinse. Deep conditioning is recommended once a week.
Use a daily leave in treatment (e.g. Curls and Curly Q’s moisturizer) to protect the hair from environmental elements. This helps prevent the hair from drying out from season to season.
Curl Maintenance
Maintaining luscious curls is no easy task. Varying climates, temperatures, activities, stress levels, etc. can all affect the appearance of your hair. Let’s face it…curly hair is temperamental. Over conditioning and product build up can weigh down the hair, rendering it lifeless. What’s the key? A regular hair care regime (including diet, exercise, and vitamins), proper upkeep, and the right products.
Curl Maintenance Tips:
Nothing is more unattractive then sparse, stringy ends…especially on curly heads. Regular trims should be a part of your hair care regime. Curly hair should be trimmed at least every 3 months. Don’t just trust anyone with your gorgeous locks. Ensure that your stylist is familiar with styling and cutting curly hair.
Heat things up a bit! Give yourself a hot oil treatment once a month…especially during the cold weather. Harsh temperatures contribute to dry, brittle hair. Counter it with a little heat. The heat opens up the inner cortex and penetrates the hair shaft. The conditioning oil strengthens the hair shaft and lubricates dry, itchy scalps. When you rinse out the oil, the shaft closes and locks in moisture. A must for curly hair!
Give your hair a break! Refresh your dry, unmanageable curls with a touch of essential oils. Avocado, jojoba, coconut, and olive oil are great moisturizers. Shampoo and condition hair. Apply oil of your choice. Gently comb oils through hair. Fine hair - use less oil, to your liking. Medium/coarse hair - use more oil, to your liking. Wear hair in protective style (e.g. bun) for 24 hours. You will find that your curls are soft, revived, and more manageable your next shampoo!
CAUTION: Avoid products that contain mineral and/or petrolatum oil as an ingredient. Do not use products with these ingredients for your hair or scalp. Both of these synthetic oils coat and suffocate the hair shaft blocking moisture out. Further, they clog pores in your scalp and can retard hair growth. Read your labels. Remember, the ingredients are listed in order of volume. <font color="blue"> Spagirl note: Ingredient order in most cases is done per the volume but it some cases it's posted alphabetically. As always, take info that works for you and discard the rest. </font>
kitchen_tician
New Member
I have one tip - This may have been mentioned.
When wearing a scarf (of course satin/silk) at night, make sure the tie/knot is not at the nape of your neck, because breakage may occur.
Tie it in the front, "Aunt Jemima style" or maybe the side. I had lots of breakage at the nape at one point. Once I started doing this, it stopped breaking.
When wearing a scarf (of course satin/silk) at night, make sure the tie/knot is not at the nape of your neck, because breakage may occur.
Tie it in the front, "Aunt Jemima style" or maybe the side. I had lots of breakage at the nape at one point. Once I started doing this, it stopped breaking.
UmSumayyah
Well-Known Member
That's a good tip kitchen.
kitchen_tician
New Member
[ QUOTE ]
Spagirl said:
[ QUOTE ]
UmSumayyah said:
That's a good tip kitchen.
[/ QUOTE ]
Ditto!
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Thanks UmSumayyah and SpaGirl
Spagirl said:
[ QUOTE ]
UmSumayyah said:
That's a good tip kitchen.
[/ QUOTE ]
Ditto!
[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks UmSumayyah and SpaGirl
